Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, we have fitted a Performance Metalcraft upgraded GTR sump without removing the engine.  It took a (long) day for 2 guys to do on the hoist.  It has raced on every circuit in NSW and a few in Vic since it was done.  I have not seen any oil pressure movement on the data log in over 2 years.  :)  

www.performancemetalcraft.com.au

SK, what's the retail on the PMC sump kit? Also how do you reckon it compares to the trust kit (which comes with extension, baffle and new pick-up)?

Cheers,

Richard

SK, what's the retail on the PMC sump kit? Also how do you reckon it compares to the trust kit (which comes with extension, baffle and new pick-up)?

Cheers,

Richard

You will have to ask PMC, I really have no idea what they charge.

The Trust kit is very simple, it extends the sump downwards (reduces ground clearance) and has an extended pick up and a cylindrical baffle. It increaaes oil capacity by ~1.25 litres. The PMC sump we use has wings (so it does not reduce ground clearance) out both sides with one way doors and baffles. It does not need an extended pick up. It increases oil capacity by a bit over 2 litres.

In funtion there is really no comparison, a winged and baffled sump is by far a superior solution. Hope that helps :)

just letting you know i know the boys at PMC have been making these sump kits for quite some time a couple of years and have never heard a bad thing about them. CRD highly recomends them as well, i've personally seen seem them fitted to almost stock GTR's to a 1200HP street GTR getting set to malaysia.

we too have one fitted to our GTR as well.

the kit is a work of art go and see leone at PMC down at euston st rydlemere.

same place as hi octane,different people.

great blokes!

  • 7 months later...

Hi all,

Just thought I would provide an update on the Accusump fitted to the car. Its been in for around 6 months now and have had plenty of track days since then.

In that time I have not had any problems with oil pressure on or off the track.

One of the side benefits of the system is that because the canister hold oil under constant pressure, and it releases its oil into the engine when it senses any oil pressure drop, you get oil pressure even before the engine starts.

Turn the ignition to "on", the system senses no oil pressure so it starts releasing oil providing oil pressure for start up. For this reason I leave mine on at all times.

There is a manual switch version usually used in race cars and an electric switch version (the one I am using) which can be turned on and off.

Ultimately I will move to a proper race sump such as SK has advocated, but until then this has been pretty good.

DANOOH,

Originally I looked everywhere. Was going to bring on ein from the States.

Ended up getting it from Performance Wholesale http://www.performancewholesale.com.au/

I don't know who else stocks them, but surely others must.

Cheers

  • 1 year later...
DANOOH,

Originally I looked everywhere. Was going to bring on ein from the States.

Ended up getting it from Performance Wholesale http://www.performancewholesale.com.au/

I don't know who else stocks them, but surely others must.

Cheers

I know this is an old post but besides purchasing the 3qt. Accusump what else is needed to install this on my GTR lump in my S14 silvia? What electric valve unit to use, and mounting kit as well? I will like to order this asap for my build, I don't want anything to give problems after install and have to drop the engine and box.

Edited by TriniGT

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...