Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Today when I was coming back from work my power steering just stopped working suddenly. The HICAS light also turned on a few moments later. It is a r32 gtst with a rb25deneo . Checked the fuses and power steering fluid and it all seems fine. I turn the car on and drive for a few seconds before the power steering gives way. So initially the power steering works when I turn on the car.I took it around the block a few times and the hicas light didn't turn on ( was only driving for a couple of minutes at a time). I put on a aftermarket steering wheel on a week ago but never had this problem. What could it be ?

The aftermarket steering wheel is the problem

Unless it accomodates the steering wheel angle sensor the hicas aint gunna like it. .when I got my R32 gtst the hicas light was on ... the(stock) steering wheel had been taken off but when it was put back on the dot on the column and dot on the back of the wheel werent lined up... . Lined them up.. reset ecu, no light

Some race day guys just cancel the power steering. With the old rack. Steering feels like a go cart but its fine, not that much of a difference. No more leak problems and sensor crap anymore.

The aftermarket steering wheel is the problem

Unless it accomodates the steering wheel angle sensor the hicas aint gunna like it. .when I got my R32 gtst the hicas light was on ... the(stock) steering wheel had been taken off but when it was put back on the dot on the column and dot on the back of the wheel werent lined up... . Lined them up.. reset ecu, no light

there is only one way you can put the boss kit on to line it up with the horn clip. I never took the lines off the hicas bar when the changed the diff i only took the two bolts off. Like i said, the when i start it it initally works but then stopped after driving down the street. i might need to do a diagnostic test on my ecu. my mechanic who even put the engine in didnt really have a clue really

  • 2 weeks later...

OMFG just spent the whole f**king day trying to swap over the pump and guess what...IT DIDNT DO JACK SHIT!!WHAT A WASTE OF 6 HOURS AND $160!!! ANYONE HAVE ANY MORE IDEA'S? I cant be any clearer, it works when i start the car and drive it for 10-20 second...i can turn the car on and leave it on idle forever and the power steering will work...but it stops after driving...the HICAS light comes on after about a minute or 2 when the power steering stops working.

i had enough of these jdm's man...too many headaches and its making my wallet empty!!

Did you do the hicas diag?

alright the HICAS light comes on, then 4 quick flashes before the HICAS light stays back on, then 2 quick flashes then the light stays on, then 1 quick flash before it stays on again. It repeats this and you can hear knocking noises coming from the back of the car.

Edited by IM-32-FK
  • 4 weeks later...

Unplug the smaller plug from the HICAS computer and see how you go.

alright, i did that, and the power steering worked for a few seconds before shutting off like usual. Could it be that the smaller plug has gone and needs re wiring?

Doubt it's the plug. Take the HICAS computer out and have a look inside, there might be a loose screw or bad solder joints or something. Mine randomly craps out and it's pretty annoying. Makes me wish I bought an R33 GT-R :(.

My car does this some times if I don't warm it up enough. when I come up to a stop the power steering stops, HICAS comes on and it try's to stall and a banging from sound comes from somewhere it's got me f***cked what it is.

Doubt it's the plug. Take the HICAS computer out and have a look inside, there might be a loose screw or bad solder joints or something. Mine randomly craps out and it's pretty annoying. Makes me wish I bought an R33 GT-R :(.
i already tried putting in a working hicas comp and the same thing happened. Maybe it's the hicas position sensor behind the steering wheel?

And Dylan, that noise might be the diff because when I do hicas diagnostic the noise comes from the diff Edited by IM-32-FK

i know its got something to do with the speedo because i read it on other forums. Like i said the speedo doesnt work anymore as well. I had to get a custom speed cable because its a neo in a r32. I took the cluster off and the needle behind the speedo wasnt snapped or anything, but i dont how its supposed to operate when its working and when its not. Someone please point me in the right direction

Edited by IM-32-FK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...