Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

You really need to think about what you want from the car, cause a car with 600hp (which is a figure you keep mentioning) wont be the greatest daily.

How much do you want to spend?

What are you using the car for?

Answer these two questions and i think youll get more specific answers.

Split T4

Thank you, look at something like this

http://www.precisionturbo.net/Street-and-Race/ss/600-800HP/details/Street-and-Race-Turbocharger---PT6262-CEA-reg-/245

With the T4 divided housing

I have always preferred twin setups for response but lately the tech in the mid to big singles is so far ahead they are possible beating twin ATM, and since you there it just makes sense to stay with what you have

Where are you located ?

Hopefully Mr Lith or Disco stick their noses in here they will have a better idea of turbos to use

To get a reasonably linear 300rwkw plus, a pair of Garrett (stock replacement turbo's) GT2860-7

( http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/garrett-turbocharger-set-garrett-gt2860r7-r34-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-307.html ).

OR HKS GT-SS http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/hks-turbocharger-upgrade-kit-hks-gtss-11004an002-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-rb26dett-p-1221.html

Hard pipe kit (need both):

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/trust-greddy-intercooler-piping-kit-aluminium-trustgreddy-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-rb26dett-p-294.html

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/trust-greddy-intake-kit-trust-greddy-airinx-suction-kit-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-r34-gtr-stagea-wgnc34-260rs-rb26dett-p-919.html

Dump pipe kit:

http://www.kudosmotorsports.com/catalog/tomei-turbocharger-dump-pipe-kit-tomei-expreme-421101-nissan-skyline-r32-gtr-r33-gtr-rb26dett-p-601.html

I'd suggest the tomei dumps with a custom down pipes or a full greddy dump kit.

Get some stock exhaust manifolds, have someone port them out (support upwards of 500rwkw).

Similar dyno results can be achieved with a well chosen single turbo, however power delivery on the street is normally not as smooth as twins... it's the off boost to 'on power' transition where the real difference is in my option.

Cheers

Justin

... btw the main reason I chose to link the products to Kudos is that they support SAU as well as being one of the only professional and customer focused parts suppliers for skyline parts in Aus.

J.

I didn't say that to try to offend you, sorry if I did.

I have already given you the advice of taking it easy for a bit and doing some research. if it takes another couple of weeks it will be worth it, both better and cheaper.

No offense Ben, would not have stayed on this site if I took offense easily :yes: blokes say what is on their mind and I do the same, all good.

The trouble is knowing nothing is a pain and I have tried to look around and the more I look the more confusing it gets, someone will love a product and the next bloke will say it is a heap of crap, makes my head spin :rolleyes:

Efr 8374iwg ( I think it is, might have those numbers wrong )

Friend has one on his gtr, it is a 3L, but makes something like 22psi before 3k and can go on to make 600whp.

Hi Richard, your numbers were right, I had a look at the Borg Warner site and that could be one I will keep in mind.

I did see they are Dual Row Ceramic Ball Bearings , I remember a post/s saying that these can brake up and enter your motor , or was that referring to a different type of ceramic part ?

Different part, what they were talking about is the factory ceramic rear wheel, they can break off and end up in your cat, I personally have never seen one go into a motor

I read something on the GTROC Forum , they did not mention Ceramic Ball Bearings so it should be OK

So I have another Turbo on my list , thanks

I don't know the bolt pattern of the T78 of hand but anything in the PT range is good, probably a PT6262 will get you where you want to be

Or even one of the HTA turbos

looking at the PT 6266 as most of the components of the T78 can be used.

Thanks for your input

Pete

Your most welcome :)

The one in the link I posted ?

I never saw the post. I will have a look if I can find it :yes:

Not that interested in the Dyno readings, I want to feel it on the road, No lag and responsive as possible from the start. Until you drive the car for a while it is hard to know what you want, I know now.

Been talking to Joey and he said that MAYBE the PT6266 could still be a bit big for what I want , quicker spool, mid range power that can still use the T78 components, anything come to mind?

I will keep looking and hoping for members to point me in the right direction. I am hoping to find what I want soon as I want to get the job done during the Easter School hols as I will have to take my kids with me to Sydney for a week while it is being done.

Thanks again for pointing me in the right direction and to get me thinking with the top head :cool:

Oh yuk, get rid of them

I suggest the UE cams to every one, they are a good setup and if I had of put some more thought into my head while the motor was apart I would have a set

If you want to change cams with "boltins" then either stock or type R poncams

Oh yuk, get rid of them

I suggest the UE cams to every one, they are a good setup and if I had of put some more thought into my head while the motor was apart I would have a set

If you want to change cams with "boltins" then either stock or type R poncams

This was the info I got back? Too late for the Poncams B, BUT that is life :blush:

The engines are designed with a certain power band range when we design and build them .

The power band of the PTE6266B CEA SP is perfect for the engines power band range of 4500 pm to 85000rpm ( std engine rpm range is 4000 to 8000 rpm ).

There is a turbo that is one size down from the 6266 and that is the PTE6262B CEA SP. This will give you a similar power band range as the original engine ( 4000 to 8000 rpm ).

Keep in mind that the exhaust manifold will need to be modified to suit either new turbo set up.

post-52098-0-87863000-1393487205_thumb.jpg

Hi Richard, your numbers were right, I had a look at the Borg Warner site and that could be one I will keep in mind.

I did see they are Dual Row Ceramic Ball Bearings , I remember a post/s saying that these can brake up and enter your motor , or was that referring to a different type of ceramic part ?

That would be ceramic wheels on turbos, like the factory GT-R ones.

I'd be impressed if you could even break a ceramic bearing.....and even more if they could somehow find their way from a sealed bearing cartridge into your engine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...