Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello guys, I'm coming off my Ps in March and I'm looking at getting myself a nice R33 GTR as a Friday/Weekend cruiser, I don't know if my budget is high enough but I'm looking at spending $20K.

My only concern is trying to find a stock one in good condition, I don't really want any pre modified ones.

Can you guys help me and give me an idea on what to look out for?

Also whats the difference between the normal GTR and a VSpec one?

Thanks much guys.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438132-looking-at-a-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

There is a huuuuuuge thread on what you should look for when buying a skyline. Have you tried googling it?

And if you want a "unmodified" one. Then contact iron chef on here and he will actor to your budget and get you what you want.

Stay away from parramatta road if you are in NSW.

  • Like 1

They're like any other ageing vehicle. Things get worn out and need replacing. Because of the GT-R's high performance nature, it can be a bit expensive.

Look for one with a decent service history since it landed and evidence it's been loved and treated correctly. They're not overly unreliable but they are old.

There goes a saying; If you can afford to buy two GT-Rs, then you can afford to run and maintain one.

My R32 GT-R has cost me about $6000 in basic maintenance and repairs in the last 12 months and that's no modding included.

^Hence get whatever one you buy inspected by a trusted workshop and compression tested.

They drive like a RWD car.

I did but it's just replacing things with genuine nissan parts, replacing things that break and a clutch.

It all adds up pretty quickly. They're definitely not a cheap car to own by any standard.

You get what you pay for.......

Personally if you are preparing to spend less then $20K on an R33 GTR, I think you will struggle.

Realistically, for something that won't give you ongoing trouble, $30K is the minimum you should budget. If you spend less on purchase, you will just spend it a bit later on repairs and maintenance....

If you can't afford that as a minimum (and remember to budget for ongoing costs like insurance ($1000+ p.a.), 98RON+ petrol ($100+ per fill), regular service and fluids ($300-400/qtr), rego etc....) then stay away - you'll just be dissappointed......

If you can afford it - its the best car owning experience there is.....

to buy a car - I'd recommend importing from a reputable importer (see separate thread) - it's your best chance to find something meeting your taste,budget and requirement.

Good Luck

Cheers

The Baron

Rule of thumb for purchasing any used/ageing/old sports car.

Take the purchase price and double it.

If you aren't able to do this, forget about getting said vehicle.

I'm not saying you will use all that money just keeping the car on the road but the extra money will give you plenty of reserves to cover worst case scenarios.

If you happen to get a really good car that doesn't dig into your savings, use that money as a deposit for a house instead...Win Win ;)

Wow. how many scare tactics are in this thread.

I'm sure old mate is aware about fuel costs and insurance. however $400 a quarter for servicing? Are you changing the timing belt every quarter?

In all seriousness, if you travel 5000km every quarter that is one oil change and filter. Even if you travel double that (which is a daily GTr) then you'd need 2 oil changes. diffs and gearbox would only need yo be done annually if you are travelling 30 000+ km a year.

Unless you are getting ripped on oil for your car or you're for some reason taking it to a BMW dealer then I see no way how it would cost a 130 a month in services.

And the market I've been seeing is clean examples of 33's in the 20-25k budget not the 30+

Unless you regard that one 33 from parramatta road with something stupid like 30,000km on it for 33k. BTW which was a r grade import.

End ramble

I guess I should qualify - I allow $150 /month for servicing costs over the year to cover all the things that might crop up. This includes the regular oils and fluids but also an allowance for all the stuff that a 15-20 year old car accumulates.....and which frankly I am not skilled enough to fix myself.

For example the clutch coil on my a/c compressor is on the way out (a common problem in an R32) - thats a $400 job the get done this year requiring an auto electrician.

I'd rather be conservative and realistic then to say "oh its only an oil and grease change every 6 months".

just my 2 c ;-)

Cheers

The Baron

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GCG is a good company, they're a major distributor for Garrett in Japan as well.
    • Nah, OEM washer bottle and brake fluid reservoirs are fine I don't know what it is with the plastic that Mazda used, some plastics, like the washer bottle and brake fluid res are fine, and still look new after 20 years use, where as the coolant expansion tank, and PS reservoir, that I replaced with new OEM items when I first got the car, turned yellow and started getting brittle a few years later If the dirty yellow stained plastics didn't trigger me there wouldn't be an issue, but they did, much like the battery bracket....... Meh As for going back to work full time to support car stuff, nope, why, because I own a Mazda NC MX5, not a Nissan R series Skyline 🤣
    • I've never heard of CJ-motor, so can't advise you on them. I'd just go straight to GCG for a GCG highflow though. Seems no point to use a middleman. I'm somewhat surprised that the price on the CJ site is lower than the GCG retail price. Even though CJ would get a discount of some sort, you would hardly expect them to give up so much margin. Maybe the price is out of date? Having said that "I'd go to GCG"...when I did my highflow, I went to Hypergear. I did this https://hypergearturbos.com/product/rb25dethighflow/#tab-dyno-results with the R34 OP6 450HP profile. With the BB centre (extra $400) and intially with the standard boost actuator, but I eventually got him to send me the high pressure one when I got to the point of being able to actually use it. Ends up costing the same sort of money as the GCG highflow, but this is, of course, the turbo that I KNOW has a shorter length core and so moves the comp cover rearwards. The GCG apparently doesn't do that. My mechanic also swears by the GCG highflow, given that we have another turbo rebuilder who does something essentialy the same as theirs, using Garrett wheels. He says it stands up at really low revs and makes good power. I haven't pushed my HG highflow past ~240-250rwkW yet (should have a little more in it, but unclear how much) and it does have a fairly gentle boost ramp. OK, it's much better now that I have gotten my boost controller tuned up on it.  A lot of my earlier unhappiness was because I couldn't keep the wastegate flap as closed as it needed to be (including some mechanical issues). I'd still prefer it to boost up nearly as quickly as the stocker, and it certainly a bit slower than that. So maybe the GCG one is worth the first look (for you).
    • Ok thanks 🙂 I will higly consider this. Any "known" company for a good reviews and experience to send that off? Is that CJ-motor good one? Or go straight to GCG site? I need to use VPN to even find some of those "shops" let alone access them 🙂 
    • You can literally put in as much WMI as it takes to quench the combustion totally (and then back it off a little, obviously), and it will keep making more and more power. The power comes from the cooling effect of the water (and the meth) and the extra fuel (the meth, which also has massive octane). It is effectively exactly like running E85. One might be slightly better than the other, but they are damn close. But with either you can lean on the boost or the timing (or both) waaaay more than with just petrol and the results are similar. Here's the first thing I googled for an anecdotal bit of evidence. Can't access the attachment without being a gold member, but it is there for the getting if able to, or searched up elsewise perhaps. https://www.hpacademy.com/forum/general-tuning-discussion/show/wmi-vs-e85/
×
×
  • Create New...