Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So im thinking i will have to roll the front guards and maybe a pump if possible to fit 17x9 with 265 rubber, if anyone knows someone to do it on the central coast that would be helpful...

Not sure about guard rolling but Road2Race is awesome with alignment and suspension work if you need to adjust it to get them to clear ;)

It is amazing what you can fit under R33 guards without a lot of work. My front guards are stock and I have rolled the rears to give me a bit more clearance. It is easy to roll the rears (we did it ourselves) but the fronts are more involved due to the shape of the guard.

The real issue with larger rims is offset. If you can get rims with a 30 to 35 offset you can normally clear suspension and guards without any problems. If you go for GTR offsets of around 20 then you can get outside the guards pretty easy.

You also need to think about tyre shape - some like Yokohama 048 and 050 have a rounded shoulder which provides a lot more clearance. Other makes like Kumho V70A have a square shoulder that means that you will require more clearance.

Here are 18 x 9 with 35 offset and 265/35/18 Federals on our R33 front and rear with no clearance problems

post-24210-0-81258300-1405338177_thumb.jpg

post-24210-0-03846900-1405338195_thumb.jpg

We also ran 17 x 9 with 22 offset and 245/40/17 Kumho V70A tyres at Eastern Creek with no clearance problems but they were a bit outside the guards.

post-24210-0-95901900-1405339790_thumb.jpg

post-24210-0-66798100-1405339806_thumb.jpg

We have now gone even bigger with 17 x 9 with 35 offset and Kumho V70A tyres with 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears but no pictures as yet. These things are seriously big with the 255/40/17 fronts about 2 cm wider than the 265 Federals.

I would be trying wheels and tyres on you car before you go modifying guards too much.

  • 1 month later...

So a full weekend of car toying.

Found the timing belt had jumped three teeth on the crank, damn lucky to only jumped three anymore would of mashed the valves. So thats fixed. New belts, new front crank seal too.

Installed new clutch, billet flywheel, crank seal, thrust and spigot bush. New npc 5puk carbotic clutch, and put in a rebuilt gearbox...

post-26316-14101639857011_thumb.jpg

post-26316-14101639994521_thumb.jpg

post-26316-14101640252618_thumb.jpg

New clutch bites hard but pedal feel is lighter than the average exedy that was in there which was totally shot.

Now just to change oil and filter, bleed brakes, and for the semi slicks in prep for track day at smsp 22nd sept...

Took it for drive today felt good and im getting used to the clutch, should all be sweet for track.

Now to look at new diff, start saving...

  • Like 1

Well it was running real rough id been testing and diagnosing it for few months and then decided it was timing and took it dvs jez, its all good now, didnt drive it with bad timing just trailered it up there.

Well i would like a nismo 1.5 gtpro, lets see how much i save for a car budget...

You need to either use the rb26 cams baking plate or cut the corners off the rb25 one, ive cut the corners off but also have a 26 one there for when i get chance to swap it in, you so need to cut a hole in the c belt cover for the vct on the intake cam so it can poke through as the 26 doesnt have the vct bulge...

Eventually wiuld like to get a 26 belt cover made in cf but with the 25 vct bulge, or weld in a bulge to my current 26 belt cover... Either way.

  • 4 weeks later...

So for the smsp track day not only did i have a rear wheel alignment done by eye, old used street tyres on the rear and healthy semis on the fronts, but i ended up with the upper control arm with a sheared off bolt, major issue, all of these things added up to a hard to handle car... And here i thought it was just my poor steering skills...

post-26316-14125822627926_thumb.jpg

The semi's must have been generating some grip to break a high tensile bolt like that.

You were so lucky that the other bolt did not fail resulting in the front wheel collapsing under the car.

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...