Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I used to have a hicas lock bar but it snaped off while driving :-{

So I now have the standard Hicas setup which I have never had before. To be honest it kinda freaks me out a little. Sometimes it makes the arse of the car feel like jelly... I am slowly getting used to it though.

Does anybody out there experience similar things with hicas?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43823-does-hicas-freak-you-out/
Share on other sites

The thread on the bar gave way so the rear right steering arm fell out. The rear right wheel started to steer my car all over the road. Lucky it was only at 80 kph. The day before this happened is was doing 200kph racing my mate :-{ That would have killed me and him

The HICAS certainly does give you that "I have no idea what's going on back there feeling" especially as speed increases. I had mine disconnected electronically, only because i didn't wan't the car to be straining against a "lock" mechanism. Centainly makes a difference with it turned off - and wouldn't even try taking it onto a track with it turned on.

I found HICAS to feel like the arse end was rolling on high profile tyres at first.Discovered that if you don't turn the steering wheel as much into corners (which is hard to get used to) then the car feels beautifuly planted on the road.I have the 1st HICAS though,which doesn't use a rear rack,so this may differ in feel to R32>

drifting isn't about skidding out of a corner, its about getting the car sideways into the corner and coming out of a corner straight... which is what HICAS will do if controlled properly, of course, its easier without HICAS (allowing you to oppy lock), but not impossible.

all HICAS does is make your steering more responsive at high speed, you just have to learn not to turn the wheel like you got no power steering.

What's dangerous is opposite locking with hicas (fun fun fun) as it has some wierd effects :P

Hicas only works at higher speeds, doesn't it? So it's not as if your girlfriend would notice the rear wheels steering, even so slightly, when I was parking the car or something? (excuse my lacking in this dept.)

Hicas kicks in properly at 80kmh and it moves the rear wheels .7 of a degree.

Hardly enough to throw you off track during "Normal Driving"

On the track yes it's tendancy to sharpen the angle of the car does make it tricky to judge the corner.... but after a few corners you get used to it. I have driven cars with and without HICAS on the track the car without HICAS and a rear brace is much more ridgid and "Feels" planted in the corner. Mine with HICAS the steering wheel tends to want to fight back but cornering is about the same in my opinion

guys my hicas doesnt work, the only time i see the hicas light is when car starts for 2 seconds then it turns off. i think its disconnect but where would it be disconnected from, and wat does the lock bar look like, i wanna find out? also when hicas kicks in does the light turn on??

also depends what model of cvar you have...

ECR33 = Hicas Equipped

ER33 = non Hicas model

HCR32 = Hicas Model

HR32 = non Hical Model

as you may have guess the C stands for HICAS

H = 2.0L Engine

E = 2.5L Engine

well it is a ecr33 cos it has it in the engine bay, and i do have a hicas system looking thing in the boot, just dont feel it kick in or the ass become easier to turn, wat should i look at, i want to experiance hicas like u guys :D

I've managed to get used to it. Theres a big corner on the way home from work which I use to get the feel of it every day. My car has front and rear strut braces and they changed the feel of the hicas a bit. It gets small precise twitches from the rear through a corner, feels kinda weird as you all know. A week after i bought my car, i tried a drift in the rain and lost it and i couldnt gain control of it, very scary stuff, i had to hit the brakes and cross my fingers id miss the guard rail. i didnt know what went wrong (later i learned about hicas). anyway, since then ive learnt that if your crossed up, point the steering wheel (dont yank on it) where you wanna go, slightly understeering and keeing power on and it will go in that direction 99% of the time. A good way to learn is to get on a skid pan or shopping centre car park and go mad for a while.

-rb25

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, that's kinda the point. The calipers might interfere with the inside of the barrels 16" rims are only about 14" inside the barrels, which is ~350mm, and 334mm rotors only leave about 8mm outboard for the caliper before you get to 350, And.... that;s not gunna be enough. If the rims have a larger ID than that, you might sneak it in. I'd be putting a measuring stick inside the wheel and eyeballing the extra required for the caliper outboard of the rotor before committing to bolting it all on.
    • OK, so again it has been a bit of a break but it was around researching what had been done since I didn't have access to Neil's records and not everything is obvious without pulling stuff apart. Happily the guy who assembled the engine had kept reasonable records, so we now know the final spec is: Bottom end: Standard block and crank Ross 86.5mm forgies, 9:1 compression Spool forged rods Standard main bolts Oil pump Spool billet gears in standard housing Aeroflow extended and baffled sump Head Freshly rebuilt standard head with new 80lb valve springs Mild porting/port match Head oil feed restrictor VCT disabled Tighe 805C reground cams (255 duration, 8.93 lift)  Adjustable cam gears on inlet/exhaust Standard head bolts, gasket not confirmed but assumed MLS External 555cc Nismo injectors Z32 AFM Bosch 023 Intank fuel pump Garret 2871 (factory housings and manifold) Hypertune FFP plenum with standard throttle   Time to book in a trip to Unigroup
    • I forgot about my shiny new plates!
    • Well, apparently they do fit, however this wont be a problem if not because the car will be stationary while i do the suspension work. I was just going to use the 16's to roll the old girl around if I needed to. I just need to get the E90 back on the road first. Yes! I'm a believer! 🙌 So, I contacted them because the site kinda sucks and I was really confused about what I'd need. They put together a package for me and because I was spraying all the seat surfaces and not doing spot fixes I decided not to send them a headrest to colour match, I just used their colour on file (and it was spot on).  I got some heavy duty cleaner, 1L of colour, a small bottle of dye hardener and a small bottle of the dye top coat. I also got a spray gun as I needed a larger nozzle than the gun I had and it was only $40 extra. From memory the total was ~$450 ish. Its not cheap but the result is awesome. They did add repair bits and pieces to the quote originally and the cost came down significantly when I said I didn't need any repair products. I did it over a weekend. The only issues I had were my own; I forgot to mix the hardener into the dye two coats but I had enough dye for 2 more coats with the hardener. I also just used up all the dye because why not and i rushed the last coat which gave me some runs. Thankfully the runs are under the headrests. The gun pattern wasn't great, very round and would have been better if it was a line. It made it a little tricky to get consistent coverage and I think having done the extra coats probably helped conceal any coverage issues. I contacted them again a few months later so I could get our X5 done (who the f**k thought white leather was a good idea for a family car?!) and they said they had some training to do in Sydney and I could get a reduced rate on the leather fix in the X5 if I let them demo their product on our car. So I agreed. When I took Bec in the E39 to pick it up, I showed them the job I'd done in my car and they were all (students included) really impressed. Note that they said the runs I created could be fixed easily at the time with a brush or an air compressor gun. So, now with the two cars done I can absolutely recommend Colourlock.  I'll take pics of both interiors and create a new thread.
    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
×
×
  • Create New...