Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How do you remove the exhaust housing of an rb25 turbo?

There's 6 bolts, 3 of which came out. The other 3 can't fully unbolt because the oil line screw holes are in the way.

Ive soaked it in wd40 because apparently your suppose to twist it?

What what does it twist, where do I hit it with a mallet?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438400-rb25-turbo-exhaust-housing-removal/
Share on other sites

you just undo the 3 as much as u can then start hitting it with a hammer and soaking it in wd40 you need to break the seal first its just welded it self from not being removed for so long eventually you will break it loose then you can twist i. Just hit it all around the housing youll need a proper hammer its steel anyway so wont break only need the rubber one on the comp housing.

Id still use a softer hammer on cast iron, you shouldnt need a hard hammer

The reason its smart to twist it to break the seal is so you dont hit one side of the housing and have that side snap loose and then snap the exhaust wheel off. I know people who have done this, It needs to come off straight or you'll need a new turbo anyway

I took it down to the turbo specialist. He said rb25 turbos are sealed inside (ball bearing) and therefore there is no point in taking it off to clean.

I ended up getting a tooth brush and getting the excess soot out of the exhaust housing, apparently the only area that needs to be sut free is around the actuator flap.

Edit: there was about 2mm thick soot everywhere, hence why I tried to take it apart to clean.

Edited by Leeroy94

Well I think if you could easily have got the housing off it would make it much easier to clean. You would have to been able to clean the whole exducer, all of the internals of the exhaust housing and anything else that you might want to at the time

But cleaning it while it being together saves possible damage to the exhaust wheel

  • Like 1

Well I think if you could easily have got the housing off it would make it much easier to clean. You would have to been able to clean the whole exducer, all of the internals of the exhaust housing and anything else that you might want to at the time

But cleaning it while it being together saves possible damage to the exhaust wheel

Yeah I think it may have slightly ceased up. I soaked it overnight but no luck.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi GTSBoy, Excuse my ignorance but what does a "Bad" Knee point mean ? 
    • HFM BM57 has a "bad" knee point, IIRC. It's not the same thing as the later R chassis MC.
    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
×
×
  • Create New...