Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

wheres that logo thread got to??

anyways, heres somthing i knocked up. its pretty much the outlines of the 32 33 and 34 tailights with the 34 standing out most cause its the latest flagship model for the gtr. obviously i cant cater for every model...plus it would make things alot messy. i think this is a fairly balanced simple design that u could use for stickers and stuff. u can change the VIC to NSW, QLD..ect. SAU font can always be changed as thats the cloest thing that i could find on the net to wat i wanted. Also thinkin of splashin some red in the taillights somewhere....still have to play around with that.

anyhoo's tell me what u guys think of it??

do i win a marsbar??:P:D

oh yeah...shout outs to dox for hookin me ups!!..haha

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43850-my-sau-logo/
Share on other sites

Hehe at first glance I thought the bit in the middle was a twin cam head :D It's on an angle like an RB is in a 'line engine bay, has the large bulge on one side, and the CAS on the other ;)

Nice concept though, well done!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43850-my-sau-logo/#findComment-896397
Share on other sites

I htink the idea was to show that the R34 can be composed of lights from both the R33 and R32?

yeah...kinda like its evolution.

as for moving the 32 abit it just means theres an extra stovetop to draw and i think theres enough as it is:D:D but feel free to play around with it to see what it looks like.

sorry sky031...like i said i couldnt cater for every single model. post up a pic of the rear of a gts-r and ill see if i can squeeze it in somewhere.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/43850-my-sau-logo/#findComment-896611
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...