Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello everyone My name is Ashcon. I live in Vancouver, Canada and own a 1991 GTS4. I love the car to death!, when it's running properly.. >_>

Tonight I was driving up a hill sitting at about 5lb's of boost when KAPOW, rod bearing went. I'm fairly certain it's Cyl #2 as when I unplug the coilpack the knock gets so quite it's almost gone. Anywho, I have another complete RB20DET sitting at my family's auto scrap yard with about 90,000 Km on it. To my knowledge, the GTS4 and GTST RB20's have different bottom ends? I was wondering if I would be able to just drop in the GTST RB, and not put in any of the front wheel drive components (ie. Just unhooking the links and whatever else may lead to that front diff). if not, am I able to bolt the GTS4 oilpan to the GTST RB with minor modification and be on my way?

Some insight and help would be greatly appriciated as everywhere I have looked people only seem to do writeups on GTR / GTS4 -> RWD swaps. Where as I'd like to keep my AWD if possible, if not if the GTST engine would just bolt up to my existing bellhousing and I have it work.

Attached are some photos of my car and what it's come to be. These are all photos of it after I rebuilt it in my garage. I repaired all of the rear wheel well rust (What a nightmare), and had the roof, windshield, A-pillar, rear quarters and fender fixed after having a garbage truck hit the side of the car with a dumpster bin... which btw wasn't as much body work as I had first thought!

Thanks! Hope someone can help!

post-132508-0-10794000-1391592404_thumb.jpg

post-132508-0-96431600-1391592407_thumb.jpg

post-132508-0-32450700-1391592412_thumb.jpg

post-132508-0-91958000-1391592416_thumb.jpg

Edited by Dezr
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438718-skyline-gts4-knock-knock-whos-there/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Ok so I have the motor and tranny out. and my new motor has arrived. It looks like the bell housing mounts are different between the GTS4 and GTST blocks. is their a way around this? or will I be needing to source a tranny, drive shaft, and new tranny brace? help much appreciated!!

  • 2 weeks later...

You cant unless you modify the pan, the AWD blocks have holes for either the RWD pan, or the AWD pan. Where as the RWD blocks only have the holes for the RWD pan. Also the oil pickups are in different spots between the two blocks, and I didn't feel like tampering that much, and my front CV's were broken anyway.

The motor bolted right up to the tranny, dispite half the people on the internet saying it wouldn't. Aside from that, I had to switch the motor mounts from the AWD block to the RWD block, took the front prop shaft out, removed the CV's, but I had to hack up the CV's afterwards to keep the splines just attached to my hubs, had an issue with the bearing coming a bit loose.

At the end of the day, it was a cheap and easy fix to my problem, and ended up with a motor with 90,000k on it that runs beautifully! Hopefully if anyone else encounters a similar issue, this will help them!

Edited by Dezr

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 3 Kids are starting to hit that ages. I wanted to get them something special to learn on, put down the screens and have some fun. 4Door 2001 R34DE Black Pearl GV1 Jap Import, AU 2nd owner. Pre Work done. Suspension - Wheels Pedders SportsRyder Coilovers   Wheels TSG Spokey Boi 18'x9.5"+15 Body JASI Aero 4 door Type R Full Kit LED Conversion - Parker, Blinkers, & Reverse Exhaust Hurricane Headers 100 CPI high flow cat 2.5" Piping Cannon muffler Internal Bride low max stradia ii - front seats  Bride RO seat base and Rails (R/H) Cube short shifter LED Conversion - Interior   
    • Why are you so adamant on going M12? Why not follow Brad (GTSBoy) suggestion. You're talking moving from a 1/8" size, to a 1/2" effectively. 4 times bigger. Why skip the commonly available sizes in between? The bigger you go, the more likely you are to strip the threads out at a later date, as guaranteed, someone will put a huge spanner on the M12 and really tighten it up, and you're only in thin wall, so not a lot of threads to engage!
    • Hi. Yeah thanks. Car is already at tuners and it staying there to resolve "many" issues they do not like. So it is in a good hands. Getting a good tune on that Nistune ECU too so the car would be good. Just needs a little tune up and love.
    • Probably gonna remove manifold and turbo. I’m not sure if I can get M12 x 1.5 air tight. Could use high temp Loctite 246 or something similar, but I don’t know. Maybe it’s just best to remove everything again and weld an 1/8NPT on there instead.
    • Yeah, saw the ratios, not impressed. Would like the punch I have in the first gears now. With those ratios it won't be the same.  Also want the h pattern gearing, or at least a quiet gear set that don't need to come apart for service each year. Looks like the only "reasonable" way Is a 8hp70 transmission, but where is the fun in that🤷‍♂️
×
×
  • Create New...