Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i went the .82 exhaust on my rb25 and i love it. Lag is basically non existant through gear changes. full boost before 4,000rpm and strong power all the way to 7200. The .63 will be more responsive yes, but by how big a margin? Id much rather a fatter mid range and top end than be super responsive and flatten out from high mid to top. but all depends on what you want out of the setup.

  • Like 1

You stick a bung in the turbo intake and pump it full of air man

What he said, my turbo inlet is 4 inch. So I went to bunnings got a 100mm PVC pipe end cap and about 3 inches of 100 mm pipe. Glued them together wile I was there ^^" ... Then drilled a hole and epoxied an air line hose fitting in the end cap. It was a tight fit into the front silicone but it goes on... Used a hose clamp!!! Lol... Then set the reg on the compressor to like 5 psi first. Plug it in and u can hear leaks right away.

No other blocking of anything

Edited by DriftSquad

yeah its weird how that works.. you would think the air would just go through the valves and out the exhaust but you can get some pressure in there... i got 25psi into mine.

Aparently beanies can lead to internal bearing damage if left on and raced with. No idea how. Hpc coating increases thermal efficiency in the turbo which leads to better response. Plus if you hpc coat it silver the chicks will flock... hard. But in all seriousness when I do go a steampipe manifold ill be hpc coating the manifold and turbo housing. Looks good, doesn't get that rusted look from heat, serves a purpose.

Edited by LTHLRB

Aparently beanies can lead to internal bearing damage if left on and raced with. No idea how. Hpc coating increases thermal efficiency in the turbo which leads to better response. Plus if you hpc coat it silver the chicks will flock... hard. But in all seriousness when I do go a steampipe manifold ill be hpc coating the manifold and turbo housing. Looks good, doesn't get that rusted look from heat, serves a purpose.

I saw 900 degree manifold temps regularly at the track, all with a beanie on. The car has done 6 hard track days and daily driving for many years without issue.

As long as the CHRA is water cooled you should be fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Why not? Since mines been built, I've used low boost maybe 5 times.
    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
×
×
  • Create New...