Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Had this turbo for my RB20, backed to back it against the TD06-20G and despite the bigger compressor gave away nothing to the 20G in response, in fact it did seem to spool up nicer on the limited street driving it did.

So has done some dyno time and about 20kms of street driving. Removed it as the 12cm housing simply was too big and 8cm too small.

On an RB20 with an 8cm housing would be a very good thing able to make 310-330rwks depending on mods (inc E85). On an RB25 with a 10cm housing would be a very good thing, with almost T67 power but with better response of the 20G

Runs a late model 65mm turbine that all the high performance turbos on late model EVOs run. Flows better than the L2 turbine.

Only reason I am selling is because I am unable to find a 10cm Trust housing for it. So running my T67 with 10cm housing. (That and also my new engine has weak valve springs and cant run over 18psi so cant get the best out of the billet wheel, so T67 is getting the job done)

If you can get a 10cm T3 housing will be a very good turbo for an RB25. An 8cm would be a better setup then a 20G


73HTA Billet Compressor by Forced Performance
med_gallery_462_50_36538.jpg
med_gallery_462_50_177446.jpg
med_gallery_462_50_151826.jpg


Side by Side with TD06-25G
med_gallery_462_50_113969.jpg
med_gallery_462_50_7215.jpg
med_gallery_462_50_180417.jpg

Asking $850
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438894-td06-73hta/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

So can you get t3 10cm housings from kando for the td06 20g billet Roy? I know the feeling of having a build up of parts sitting in a room doing F ALL LOL.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438894-td06-73hta/#findComment-7207073
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

I have a 10cm rear housing for sales...modified with 44mm TIAL gate ...bolts to stock manifold and comes with dump pipes...

if any one is interested.. :D see my link below...

\

If i had spare cash i most definately would of bought this off you Roy and stretched the legs on the old RB...I know it would be an amazing turbo to run...

Instead I bought a Toyota... I would happily bolt it to the Toyota too, but then theres tuning and what not...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438894-td06-73hta/#findComment-7225787
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...
  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Just updating the link to the exhaust housing you need to run this on your RB25

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Kinugawa-Turbine-Housing-STD-TD06-T3-Flange-10cm-A-R-73-V-Band-External-Gate-/281406096058?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item41851c42ba

Slap that housing on the turbo and with whatever manifold you are running.....or weld the gate to the turbine housing to bolt it on to the std manifold and make a responsive 330-350rwkws on E85

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438894-td06-73hta/#findComment-7372835
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

I still live in hope that I can find a Trust TD06 10cm housing but to date have not been able to...so if someone wants to take this off my hands its sitting in a box and a friend that was keen to try it on his S13 has not lost interest in his project...so desire to hold onto it is now fading

Also, it someone wants my genuine Trust T67 and 6boost setup I will part with it and use the 73HTA on std manifold with gate welded to housing

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438894-td06-73hta/#findComment-7437926
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...
  • 9 months later...

So i sold the T67 setup with gate manifold with a view of running this on a std manifold with gate welded to it...but decided to stay the course and finish my new motor with twins

So the turbo now has a new T3 10cm housing making it pefect for RB25. I still have the 12cm housing but that has the Trust 3 bolt flange, but hey if you prefer that housing i can swap it back to the 12cm

gallery_462_50_285325.jpg

gallery_462_50_1348940.jpg

gallery_462_50_548485.jpg

gallery_462_50_966223.jpg

With housing ready to go $1000

If you do searches for FP Green turbos which run this exact compressor and an older version of this turbine you will see on Evos they often make ~450awhp on E85...

http://www.forcedperformance.net/merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=FP&Product_Code=NTDSMFPGREEN&Category_Code=Holidaysales

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438894-td06-73hta/#findComment-7685552
Share on other sites

As per pms'....if you are running 98 fuel i dont think there will be much difference between this and a 20G. A handful of kws and a beeds dixk in response. If you run E85 where the 20G will stop making power at 20-21psi this will keep on gunning and making power at higher boost

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/438894-td06-73hta/#findComment-7686376
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah I've had too many issues with knock off's on the BMW's. I don't want to do a job twice or more because the parts are shit.
    • I read this and thought "ah! I will do this scissor jack on the tow point thing!" I just use my floor/low profile/costco jack and lift the car up by the tow hook itself, then slide jack stands under. Never thought about using scissor into floor jack combo :p
    • Well, my new WMI system took much longer to finalize. I actually missed my dyno appointment last Friday and lost my 150$ deposit. I'll be going back in the next week or two.  To sum it up. I only kept the AEM tank from my old setup. I replaced the AEM pump with a higher flow/pressure ProMeth 30GPH pump. I also swapped over to a 6AN low pressure feed line to the pump from the tank. There's also a pressure switch you cannot see on the pump high pressure line.    This is feeding 6x 200CC direct port nozzles and 1x 500CC Pre Throttle body nozzle. All fittings are Swagelok, because well why not. I also have a 300PSI pressure sensor up front.    I now have my Haltech ECU controlling everything. I start my pump with a basic relay at 5PSI and deadhead it. I then PWM a 3000CC methanol Injector to control flow starting around 10psi. The pressure switch in the trunk, along with my tank level are safeties before I ever get to 10PSI, and then I use my pressure sensor upfront as a secondary safety to cut the WMI and corrections in case the injector blocks or a line ruptures.  Wish me luck on the dyno!    
    • So, I'm back with bad news. There's no jack long enough on this planet that will reach the front subframe. If by some chance there is, it would weigh 200lb's.  I purchased a long reach jack... The damn thing weighted 120lb's and was massive. Didn't even come close, was still short at least a foot. It was a pain, but I brought it back. Next I decided HA! No problem, I'll get an Extra long reach jack. Well, I couldn't lift the box... It must have weighed 160LB's and luckily there was an open box in store. I took measurement and was still nowhere close.  Sadly I've lost hope and have accepted defeat. 
    • Thanks for that tip, niZmO_Man. I think the battery is OK. It's quite a new one, but I'll check. Last time I needed a new battery, everything electronic was fine, except that there wasn't enough current to turn over the starter. I decided to order one of the partial AV system translation CDs from Car Audio Workshop in NZ. That might have some effect, or help me diagnose the date problem. 🤞
×
×
  • Create New...