Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys,

I'm after a stock dump off an m35, hopefully someone who has upgraded to a Scotty-spec or the like has their old one lying around and doesn't mind parting with it. Let me know if you've got one! Thanks a lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439111-wtb-stock-m35-dump-pipe/
Share on other sites

Well Josh, it sounds stupid and it probably is but here's the deal:

I'm looking for a stock dump so i can try smash out the cat convertor and swap it with my stock dump. Not because i wanna be hectic sick and go hard and loud, but actually because i need to install a wideband o2 sensor before the first cat. I can't put it in stock o2 location because it's too close to the turbo and will get damaged from the heat. Needs to be further downstream.

At this point you might be saying "so fit a Scotty dump pipe and plumb in your sensor just behind that...car will go hectic sick fast & loud and you have o2 sorted"

You'd be 100% correct. This is where it gets stupid, I'm about to install + tune an Fcon V pro on the stock setup. I've got a 3071r that will be going on once i finish buying all the other supporting mods i'll need to make it all happen (more than likely this will take aaaages) So that'll have a custom dump once it goes on and as it's V-band rear, there'd be no use for a factory style dump pipe.

So basically to save some cash for now and get car running on the f-con, i need a cat-less stock dump to make it possible.

Pretty stupid? Maybe...

Even possible? Not sure...but if i can get a spare pipe i'll have a crack

Thats my amazing story, thanks for reading :)

I can't put it in stock o2 location because it's too close to the turbo and will get damaged from the heat. Needs to be further downstream.

You can run it in the factory location if you put a screw in o2 cooler under it. There should be enough room...

You would need to select the narrowband output and plug it back into the factory loom, otherwise closed loop economy will be all over the place.

Yeah thanks Scotty,

I wanted to keep the factory o2 there anyway to avoid those issues, I'd feel better just having it at the start of the midpipe.

You mentioned maybe selling your setup to me before but I thought you were waiting till the Evo was back on the road?

Have you fitted the new turbo and built a new setup to suit it already?

No, not yet. But I can rip it all out if you are interested and just make some new parts up for myself. Not sure when the evo will be on the road, the mech building the engine is being slack.

Ah I see...we'll I'm pretty strapped for cash at the moment but can you pm me a list of what you'd sell and how much?

The only prob I'd have using your old stuff is that the rear housings are different, so the wastegate section and flange part won't work. I haven't gotten deep enough into the job yet to see if I can force the t3 rear in there somehow, and if that'll mean all pipe work will be slightly different to your setup.

HKS couldn't manage to fit the T3 flange, and I know I couldn't, there just isn't room. You would have trouble enough fitting my kit, it's very tight under there.

So pretty much I'm going to have to sell the t3 rear and get a dual v-band. Yeah... That'll have to wait a while I reckon. For now just want to get the car running on the fcon.

I'll see if Pac will give me a trade with cash adjustment, I could have chose the v inlet when I bought the turbo but I didn't look into your one enough. It's still in box so I reckon they will help me out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
×
×
  • Create New...