Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys I have a 04 coupe and wanted to know if anyone has bc coilovers installed with the damper control setting on the top. Problem is I purchased a strut bar from ebay and it doesnt fit because the bracket hits the top of the damper button. Is there anyone out there who has a strut fitted with bc coilovers that clear the damper button and also if you have a plenum spacer does it clear the bonnet or engine cover needs to be removed? Thanks guys

Hi mate.

I have BC coilovers, the 5/16th plenum spacer and a carbon engine cover. I've managed to install my strut bar.

From what I've heard, not all strut bars will fit. Ebay one's undoubtedly have very little R&D to take these needs into account. As a result I bit the bullet and purchased a GT-Spec strut bar.

Fits perfectly! Very happy

12714532985_6c52862407_o.jpg

12714542655_cd27a40b66_o.jpg

Mate that looks clean! Looks like ill be after those as well...just wanted to know where you purchased the strut, cover and the bonnet/hood dampers? Cheers also did the strut make a difference?

No point in putting a strut brace on. Does nothing and most are hollow weak crap. Our cars are weaker down the bottom not up top like previous skylines.

Research would have saved alot of time!

Edited by Howaitonaito

They are probably not useless, just very low on the priority list in terms of suspension upgrades.

Did you order that one that is all one piece? Any chance of a pic?

I installed the bar after installing new whiteline bushings and sway bars. I noticed a difference before and after the strut bar alone; steering felt slightly sharper.

During the install I did observe flex between the strut towers which I also found was predominately eliminated by the strut bar.

I had to move the car to let another out of the driveway, and parked with one wheel off the drive. The strut bar (which was not tightened at the ends) couldn't be moved due to the force acting upon it.

Upon moving the car back to an even surface it became adjustable again (up and down).Obviously there is flex in the chassis. Controlling this flex is the strut bar's job; If this flex didn't exist then yes the bar would be useless, but from my experience it does. Others can make up their own mind but I found value in a decent quality strut bar. I wouldn't put it high on the mod list for handling though as you get better bang for your buck with sway bars.

Howaitonaito is right in that you should avoid cheap bars as they are usually hollow pieces of junk which would never cope with force exerted on it.

I bought the gt-spec bar from evasivemotorsports.com. One of the few places that will ship it internationally. Again I chose it after researching (would suggest you make your own choice) - it's of a very high quality in terms of welding and construction.

The other carbon stuff was from a seller in the US... can't remember sorry =(

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...