Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, wasnt quite sure where to post this question.. also im a turbo/nissan/stagea novice. Have only had the stag (rs4s) a week and she's my first turbo.. (ive learnt a sh*t tonne of things from SAU forums btw).

Okay so i was being a little lead-footed on the way home tonight and found that if i sink my shoe through the firewall, at about 4500rpm in 1st and 2nd gear mainly, there seems to be a noticeable flat spot in throttle.. almost like the revs hit a brick wall then recover. What is happening here, is it normal and how would I overcome this annoyance?

Thanks for everyones help in advance :)

→Lorry

Ps: only mod (that im aware of), is a 3" cat back

Edited by staglover
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439602-possible-stupid-question/
Share on other sites

Depends what you mean by a flat spot. There is a noticeable dip in power when the VCT changeover happens.

On the other hand if you lose all power momentarily that could be the ecu protecting the engine against overboosting (do you have a boost gauge? do you know if you are running standard boost?) which could happen on a cold night. That's called R(ich) and R(etard) when the ecu dumps extra fuel into the system and pulls back the timing at the same time.

what's VCT? Boost cut makes sense as it feels like a total loss of power.. I just thought it would have come on a little bit later than 4500. I have a stock boost gauge, the one in the center console. Full boost has never been more than 355mmhg (6.8psi or .47bar). Plan on getting an A/M one but I cant find a 52mm that even slightly matches (any ideas?)

I have the stock airbox with a brand spankin new k&n panel filter. I've read something about a rubber pipe on the intake somewhere that collapses under boost, would that maybe something to consider upgrading?

Edited by staglover

Mmm, I don't know if the K+N is a good idea, it could be worth cleaning the afm, just in case the oil from the filter has coated the hotwire.

Usually the intake starts sucking shut around 200kw, you can either stick a small piece of 3 inch stainless pipe inside it by cutting where the corrugations are and clamping it, which will help a little, or I can supply a nice 80mm custom alloy intake that will allow any power your setup can make, and fit up to the stock bov/breather/afm.

Don't bother with the silicone intakes on Ebay, they are worse than the rubber ones.

  • Like 1

Don't over oil them, spray some electrical contact cleaner on the AFM wire when you change oil.

There is no problem using K&N filters. There may be better options out there but if you have one then just maintain it correctly and it will be fine.

Pay Scotty for a properly designed and made intake pipe.

Hmm. I thought all filters were oiled but obviously not.. ive got a brand new stock panel, ill put that on instead and clean the AFM.

Interested in the hard intake pipe scotty. May as well fix the factory flaws. How much would one of those set me back?

PM'd. :)

Thaks man. I found some pictures around forums, looks pretty top shelf. Do you make them yourself? Im super keen for one but as I just bought the car, im a little short on funds unfortunately..Id definitely like to hit you up for one in the near future though.

Okay.. different question, But related to the OP. Since this boost cut thing happened, I have irregular boost. Seems normal (6.8psi) when ot has just warmed up. After about 20mins of driving, it only makes 3psi or less. I had a listen for boost leaks, replaced a vacuum line for boost gauge but can hear a 'pssssssst' noise when I turn the engine off. Sounds like its coming from the front right (intake side) of the engine.. anything specific i should look at? So much sh*t going in and out of it, I have no idea what many lines do.. my knowledge of working on engines stops at hemi 6's.. so I've got 30+ years of technology to catch up on :O even if someone could point me in the right direction. Thanks in advance

Edited by staglover

Make up an 80mm plug to put where the afm sits, on the corrugated rubber pipe off the airbox. Stick a compressor fitting on the plug and try to put 10-20psi into the intake. This will show up any leaks and you will find them fairly quickly.

HKS Super Hybrid panel filter is the best I've found. Three layered foam insert (course, medium & fine).

Got mine off eBay from a guy in NZ. Someone over here must sell them though.

Direct fit into standard air box.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The powder coating came in at $250 EACH. The TRX rims got a coat of clearcoat on the outside only.    
    • Bit wet, but YUMMY
    • Keeping in mind that I am currently getting flat 10 L/100km on my RB25DET, which means >>500km/tank. I would test this car for vacuum leaks, check codes and AFM signal with NissDataScan as D says, check plugs, do a compression check while they are out.
    • It is hard to be specific half way across the world...but it *seems* like it might have a minor issue. Is the idle stable and does it rev smoothly? I would not expect any pops out of what I am assuming is a standard ECU, standard tune, standard exhaust. You can use Nissan Data Scan to find out exactly what is happening when it runs, the cable/software is reasonably affordable if you are not planning on changing the ECU (which hopefully you are not with an NA skyline) BTW your mileage may not be that far off, these are heavy old tech cars, and being NA might mean you use a heavy foot to keep up with traffic....
    • Hey guys! Y'all are the masters so figured I'd check in on a few items here. - My engine sounds ever-so-slightly more raspy than the other NA RB25s I've listened to. It's barely noticeable but definitely a slightly different sound. - When I back off the throttle at high RPM, I will sometimes get a pop out of the exhaust, assuming this can be diagnosed as misfire. Some history on the car: - Had an exhaust leak in auction sheet but was claimed to be fixed by seller (bought from USA importer).  - Car's coil packs and sparks were replaced when it was sold to me, but unsure on what the gap is and whether the coil packs are correct.  - A prior mechanic had misdiagnosed a pilot or throwout bearing sound as LSPI/detonation. Had played with timing a bit, pops/raspy sound of engine just got worse. Got timing reset. - Had failed emissions a few times. First time went in as is, failed. Second time, replaced cat, still failed, running rich as hell. Third time replaced o2 sensor, passed. Car still smells gassy though. - Timing belt and valve cover gasket also replaced.  - Gas mileage is... low. about 350-400K per tank.  Any idea if I'm having any serious issues here or does this all sound like normal old NA RB stuff and I'm fine to drive it with the pops/slightly raspy engine? If it'll help, I can get drop a video of the sound of the engine.
×
×
  • Create New...