Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Dont know why you want one......

They are expensive for what you get BUT They are the only thing good for postie style work. ( i spent about a year delivering junk mail on one)

Nothing else can do it like a ct110

If you want it for riding to and from places, there are many cheaper better bikes.

they were untill China

Yes they are sooo crappy, they are supposed to be cheap as chips, but we only import and comply them for Auspost.

So there is a limited number in aus, and the demand for junkmail delivery pushes the price up.

Farmers get them, but these are uncomplianced. And usually the ag version.

There is a new one out now, i dont know if its improved. The maintenance on the old ones is constant, as they are under engineered.

But for mail delivery you HAVE to have the double gear lever and auto clutch.

Edited by D.I.Y. Mik

Yes, I need it for delivering mail.

I have just started my own Real Estate Company http://www.matesratesrealestateaustralia.com.au/

and I am doing a stack of direct marketing but doing it on foot is taking forever.

So I need a bike to do it on as it will be ongoing.

I had a look on ebay, allclassifides, gumtree etc, but there is nothing local.

Surely there are some around here as they are traded by aus post at about 25,000ks.

Shame I didn't see it earlier, selling one of my houses currently.

Would have loved your currently selling house, if it was in a better location.

Oh well. There is always another around the corner.

Shameless plug... How are you going with your current agent?

I only charge $5500 and do quality advertising like this: and drive a hot skyrine

http://www.industriemedia.tv/files/20162-w/vr/index.php

Cheers,

James

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...