Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

i havent boosted my car hard for a few weeks, and noticed when i do boot it, the car loses power and surges a small amount, i have more power on slight throttle than 1/4 1/2 and wot. the exhaust has gotten noticeably louder from the tip, and has backfiring on de-accelerating. You can hear the differences from the turbine at different throttle positions, so i am guessing it is still boosting fine. I have an inkling it could be that the cat has let go and caused a restriction? obviously i would check it myself, but one of the bolts for the cat are tight and is almost impossible to get to without a hoist and the right tools.

edit: The exhaust sound is clean, and it doesn't want to rev quickly in neutral like it should

I've searched online and called some friends but no real answer.

Edited by Stagea97
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439737-loss-of-power-louder-exhaust/
Share on other sites

I would go to an exhaust shop and get them to check it out(measure the temp in front and behind the cat), if that isn't the problem you might also find that you have lost a couple of blades on the exhaust side of the turbo, same thing happened to my skyline. Good luck and keep us posted.

Thanks for the help stock stag and pickles :)

Sleek came over because I was too sick to work on the car. We tested tps, checked plugs etc etc. I called Jez and another friend and dales friend...

Everyone pointed to the afm being the culprit, I've never heard of the afm doing this so I was skeptical. But sure enough dale took it for a run while it was cold and it ran fine on the cold map, then when things started to get hot it started to play up a lil. Hit it with some contact cleaner and I'll have to go for a drive this weekend.

Also with the afm problem, we had a problem with the auto not wanting to manually engage 1st or 2nd or snow mode or reverse chime etc. we freaked out until we remembered the basics 'check the f**king fuses before you do anything else' sure enough new fuze and everything is now good.

Should I buy a brand new one for $80-$120 comes with 12 months warranty. Or just another second hand for $20.

I won't worry about re soldering. Because I had an afm that f**ked out and re soldered and didn't make a difference.

Cliffs: I'm on the train killing time.

Also got some new tyres. Calling the nsw tein distributor for the rear 345mm springs

post-108100-0-90733100-1393450617_thumb.jpg

post-108100-0-36254600-1393450626_thumb.jpg

I seem to have the same issue with my m35 surges when in auto mode only but when I'm in sequential mode it doesn't happen at all. Also seems to stall like it loosing air have had to unplug a fpr to keep it from stalling which is making it run rich. What could the issue be here guys?

I plan to Scott just saving for one and dyno time. But yeah fitted the stock one back into for the 3hour drive back upto Sydney. It runs perfect didn't skip a beat, idled low around 500 but no issues at all. :-/

Neither would I mate.

After reading the nismo ecu thread started by Craig I was super pumped to get my hands on one but I'm disappointed on the outcome after installing it really. Fuel economy when through the roof was getting 12l/ 100km with standard and 32l/ 100kms with the nismo the engine was surging and kept on stalling on me. It did shift better and have better low to mid torque and spooled up earlier but at the cost of reliability. Pritty bumbed about it. Not sure why it would run lick that though. :-(

Yeah I know:/ yep same power plant vq25det ARX nm35 stagea had a high flow if think and some other minor mods as mine so don't think that should be the issue as the nismo ecu as all set to the same spec for the vq25det. Strange hey. What do you mean by box btw? How's your car running now bud all good I hope?

As in transmission? Yeah seems to be fine bro never had a problem with it and runs fine with the stock ecu in oh well shit happens hey! :-/

Good to here mate a quick spray is a much cheaper option to try first but they do seem to let go eventually. :-(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...