Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heyy sau

So I've got my a pretty bad situation... My driver's side window won't come back up :(

So through pulling the trim off and going through isolating the switch and motor I have my self a broken switch and broken motor.

Called my local Nissan and they quoted me $570 for the motor and $194 for the switch... But said it's now illegal for them to provided me with part numbers.

I have the motor one as 80730AL501

But with vigorous searching of sau, google for both the m35 and v35 sedan no result for the switch. Could anyone help me out with the part number please?

Thanks you

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/439812-window-stuck-down/
Share on other sites

They come up all the time on yahoo japan if you can afford to wait for shipping (mine did the same and I just suction cupped/duct taped it shut for a few weeks... cops didn't like it but haha). Fyi I ended up buying a passenger side motor V35 motor and just took a little cutting back of the excess plastic to get it to fit. Lost the Auto Up function but for the amount I saved it was worth it (was about 150 for regulator and motor). They do come up on Ebay from time to time as well. Hope that helps.

  • Like 1

BTW if the parts department told you it was "illegal" to give you a part number you should report them to their manager.

They may decide not to give you the part#, but it is certainly not illegal.

  • Like 1

They come up all the time on yahoo japan if you can afford to wait for shipping (mine did the same and I just suction cupped/duct taped it shut for a few weeks... cops didn't like it but haha). Fyi I ended up buying a passenger side motor V35 motor and just took a little cutting back of the excess plastic to get it to fit. Lost the Auto Up function but for the amount I saved it was worth it (was about 150 for regulator and motor). They do come up on Ebay from time to time as well. Hope that helps.

Thinking of just putting the window up on the weekend and blocking it to stay up, auto up and down is my favourite feature :'( but thank you for the information and I'll keep it in mind :)

BTW if the parts department told you it was "illegal" to give you a part number you should report them to their manager.

They may decide not to give you the part#, but it is certainly not illegal.

Don't worry Duncan I had a good laugh about it, there was two Guys that owned imports but they never answer the phone :(

Thinking of just putting the window up on the weekend and blocking it to stay up, auto up and down is my favourite feature :'( but thank you for the information and I'll keep it in mind :)

Agreed, auto is the goods

Another option is you can just get an auto elec to rebuild the motor from yours. I got quoted $80 to get one rebuilt when mine failed, but then i picked up a second hand one for way less and just stuck that in.

Agreed, auto is the goods

Another option is you can just get an auto elec to rebuild the motor from yours. I got quoted $80 to get one rebuilt when mine failed, but then i picked up a second hand one for way less and just stuck that in.

I remember someone deep in the sands of time said the motor brushes were very similar to an R33 window motor.

Ive had this happen to me on many occasions.

What i did was slightly tap the outside door and then get in the car while holding the window switch up close the door with a bit of force and it should go back up. Should

It may or may not work for you but give it a try, and if it does work dont put it down again.

Good luck

Edited by Howaitonaito
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • When you crank your car, and hit it with a timing light, can you see a steady crank timing?
    • Oh, forgot to add, A few months ago I was getting mixture codes and the car was using crap loads of fuel. You could smell the unburned fuel in the exhaust, it was crazy strong. Economy was over 17.5 l/100 and usually around 19. I smoked the engine and found a leaky CCV hose which I replaced and then I replaced my two pre cat O2 sensors, I also replaced the MAF. This fixed my mixture codes and improved my exonomy but I'm still 14 - 15 l/100 when pottering about town so something is still amiss. Throttle response is much better and it has more pep but I'd like to know why it's still so thirsty (and I'm hoping that whatever it is gives me a bit more poke).    
    • Car is on factory injectors/z32 maf/ q45 throttle body/ z32 ecu with nistune 
    • Hello all, currently finishing up a rb25 swap into my s14. Having issues with starting, car has spark (confirmed by pulling a plug and watching it spark), has fuel(confirmed by checking pulse/voltage at injectors all spark plugs are soaked in fuel). Car cranks over and pops into the exhaust with a heavy fuel smell but no attempt to start or run, I have torn the timing cover off and triple confirmed timing, turned the CAS in multiple spots both directions, attempted to start with coolant temp and maf unplugged, checked my fuel lines and made sure they weren’t backwards, checked voltage at cas/injectors/coilpacks, made sure all the grounds in the harness are connected and added a few grounding straps (1 from chassis to block, 1 from chassis to head, and 1 from chassis to igniter chip) I am getting stumped here. As a last ditch effort I made a full grounding harness tonight that’s going to run from the battery and add an extra ground from the battery onto the coil pack harness/igniter chip/ intake manifold/ Wiring specialties harness ground/ and alternator. I’m hoping maybe the grounding harness will fix it here but posting here to see if anyone has any other ideas on what else I can check. My fuel pressure is unknown right gauge will be here tomorrow.  IMG_3206.mov
    • yeah I was shocked when I checked my spare OEM on and as below that's how they come from Nissan. (side interesting note new NEO gearbox and replacement park lack the brass bush on the tips and its just all alloy) unsure about damage to the box currently back at 1110 to be pulled down/inspected and selector fork replaced as he built it previously and given the never before seen failure on his billet forks he is replacing it under warranty. He said he has used always OEM the keyway tab without issue for years so it could be an unlucky coincidence. I did talk to him about the sharp corners and stress concentration too. Re: hard shifts i got 7+ years out of the OEM one and the fork itself failed not the keyway. so could be bad luck as I said or an age thing + heat cycles in box and during fabrication of billet?
×
×
  • Create New...