Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys. First time on sau.

Been searching everywhere but can't find the ecu for my car or any info on it as mine has fried itself when water got to it somehow the other day in a storm.

From what I've found it is a rare number and every wrecker I've called near me hasn't got anything.

The ecu number is 23710 0V801. I've read that the 0V800 is the mines ecu and may work but is there any others that may work or does anyone have one or can lead me in the right direction?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/440067-c34-s2-manual-neo-turbo-stagea-ecus/
Share on other sites

Pretty sure Mines have no influence over the Nissan part numbers. Did your ecu have a Mines sticker on it?

Post up your location and someone may have an ecu for you to try. An R34 GTT ecu will probably do the job.

Or just rip the insides out and install a Link or Vipec!!

Sweet so I can get any manual gtt or stagea ecu and put a nistune board in it and get it tuned to suit. As long as it has vo800 or 01 or 02. Do the first 5 numbers have to be the same??

Thanks heaps guys. I've been searching all over Australia for a used one with the same number but had no luck. I'll start trying to find a nistuned ecu now.

I'm from Wollongong area in nsw if anyone has one?

Any R34 GT-t or Series 2 Stagea ecu should be fine. When the Nistune board is installed you specify the correct base image which will correlate with model of car you have ie. and whether it is auto or manual (and it does make a difference to the behaviour of the ecu).

If might be worth your while calling or emailing Matt @ Nistune and asking him to look over you ecu.

From a email I found from Matt at Nistune (also a Quote I put up on a old thread)

"If the ECU has the numbers like 23710-0V8XX then you are in luck... and we can do that with a Type 4 board. JECS is a good sign... means its not a Hitachi ECU"

I know because my ECU is 23710-0V812 (I've got a S2 Auto)...From what I can remember is that you can use a Stagea ECU from an auto into your car but you'' need to mod it to fool the ECU that car is in gear

Yeh that's what I figured. I put the standard computer in today. The car seems to run fine. But check engine light is on and tacho not working.

I hooked our scantool up to it and it has no codes and the computer is getting an rpm signal.

Anyone got any idea what the problem is?

If I can get it all fine without bus tuning I will leave it.

I was thinking maybe the mil wire and tacho wire in the ecu plug may be the wrong way around for this computer.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...