Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Honestly, the legalities in running a single (if your tight on cash, try engineering the car to run a single legally), just stick with the twins, the car remains stock looking under the hood.

Dont go bigger than -5, the lag will cost you time on the street as it is on -5's at worst, as you go down the turbo choise, they come on earlier, on the street you need response.

Remember you have a stock bottom end, you also have your limits to reliable power, as your apporching 400Kw its a ticking costly time bomb unless you spend on forged internals.

Pick a power level, select the smallest turbos to comfortably reach that goal without winding the shit out of them, you want the car to hammer from down low, the engine and turbos to last also if your Mrs has one in the oven......once the kid comes im sure you will be out of cash. :)

Edited by GTRPSI
Honestly, the legalities in running a single (if your tight on cash, try engineering the car to run a single legally), just stick with the twins, the car remains stock looking under the hood.

Dont go bigger than -5, the lag will cost you time on the street as it is on -5's at worst, as you go down the turbo choise, they come on earlier, on the street you need response.

Remember you have a stock bottom end, you also have your limits to reliable power, as your apporching 400Kw its a ticking costly time bomb unless you spend on forged internals.

Pick a power level, select the smallest turbos to comfortably reach that goal without winding the shit out of them, you want the car to hammer from down low, the engine and turbos to last also if your Mrs has one in the oven......once the kid comes im sure you will be out of cash. :)

Agreed, but it's a gtr, they will always find something to defect, but I'm also one for not trying to gain unwanted attention either, I guess the single is just pure want factor. And found a cheap setup, so that's why I asked, I've now got my answers. Cheers the guys that made useful replies!

And as for remembering about the stock bottom end, yes how can I forget lol, that's why I mentioned about keeping the boost as low as possible without sacrificing power too much. The only plus side is, it doesn't get to much unneeded use, owned it for 18 months and only travelled 7500kms.

And yes thanks for the reminder, I thought I knew what broke street was, I can only imagine what the future holds. But just happy to be in a fortunate position to be able to keep the car. As I always have done. Nothing wrong with having a toy, even if it just sits in the garage as a focal point ATM! Thanks for your help mate.

Well have a think about the extra issues your going to have with defects and bills mounting up around you, you dont want to be adding fuel to the fire with a family now.

At least you have a GTR before you had a kid.

I watched them racing at bathurst when my boy was 3 months old and swore when i had money id buy one, paying rent, buying nappies, paying for school, working 6 days a week to make ends meet, i had to wait till he was 16 till i paid off a house and could afford one.

Damn shit then took the keys off me when he turned 21. :)

I'm hearing you mate, I'm no rich kid, everything I have I've worked the last 10 years for since the age of 15. Hardest thing was explaining to the mrs how swapping my ve ss for the gtr plus abit of cash my way, wouldn't end up being a mistake, the car has now sat here for the last 6months, I did have a perfectly fine mildly modded ss, to a gtr, that's spent more time off the road then on, but that's mainly down to me not wanting to drive a car that's not running 100%. So I brought the mrs a nicer car. She had a Hyundai Getz, I hated having to drive that from time to time, and got a xr6 turbo, she loves the sunroof n leathers, and I love the turbo lol. But hopefully I'll get a chance to give my kid my gtr when the time is right. Not that they would probly be interested in such an old car in 21years time.

But hopefully I'll get a chance to give my kid my gtr when the time is right. Not that they would probly be interested in such an old car in 21years time.

if they see how much their dad loves the GTR....i'm sure they would be able to appreciate it in time to come :)

  • Like 1

Just my luck, brand new pair of -10's up for sale in f/a section in my area and a good price

The -10's will be worse than the -5's in terms of lagginess. If you want that much top end power you can go E85 on a smaller set of snails and keep your response.

from memory, the laggiest to most responsive 2860's goes from -10, -5, -9, -7's. But the 9's and 7's are pretty close with the 9's being the newer design with better top end.

The -10's will be worse than the -5's in terms of lagginess. If you want that much top end power you can go E85 on a smaller set of snails and keep your response.

from memory, the laggiest to most responsive 2860's goes from -10, -5, -9, -7's. But the 9's and 7's are pretty close with the 9's being the newer design with better top end.

That's what I mean by just my luck, that there 10s and not 5s but all good. I'll find some.

Has anyone run the t517z twins? Also a set of them for sale on here.

Mate if you're interested I have a set of -5s that are so new they have done zero kms. they were on the engine, the engine was started bad then the engine was removed (builder f**ked up) if you're interested we should be able to work out a deal

Theyre in wetherill park

  • Like 1

I run a pair of t517z 10cm's on my r32, also had -5's on my previous Gtr.

They are fairly leggy but can produce lots of grunt for a low mount. I'm not sure which I would pick, but the t517z setup is faster I feel. Not heaps in it, if you went for 8cm housings try wound be very similar to -5's I'd say.

The trust turbos are a near install as they don't have water cooling.

  • Like 1

Although it has been pointed out to you a few times you don't appear to have got the message - boost is not a factor in the life of your engine. Max power is a factor and to look after your engine you need a good tune, good maintenance with quality synthetic oil and sympathetic driving.

I just need to point out that boost isn't what kills motors. So lower boost doesn't mean it will last longer. Yes, it will reduce the potential for knock, but that's pretty much all.

Boost is a figure that combines the air volume being "pushed" and the amount of restriction (generally caused by the hot side of the turbo). So it is better to think of it as a power efficiency scale than directly a power scale. That's a major factor why you see so many differing power levels at say 18 PSI.

Now power is power, and power means forces at play on the internals of your motor. There are a number of 400kw cars running around on stock internals. But if you speak honestly to any of the owners they are generally know they will have to rebuild the bottom end at some point and have accepted it. If you want a reliable and dependable car then stick with 300kw on 98 or around 340kw on e85. It's proven that a stock bottom end can take that level and survive a pretty long time.

So I agree with Piggaz that you should be looking at -9 or -5 turbos. -7's and -10's aren't as efficient so there will be trade off. If you go -5 you have the option to add the supporting mods and go for 400 on e85 but will be pushing a lot of boost and need big injectors etc. -9's on e85 gets you efficiently to say 340kw.

Pushing above that level you can take your chances. Just want to make sure you understand that. The problem with forums is that it is too easy to read about someone's build and it seems easy to make power. There is no "easy" about it. And the cost curve isn't linear - you can't just do another $5k upgrade and hit a power level. It all has to balance out.

(long post, but hope you find it helpful)

Although it has been pointed out to you a few times you don't appear to have got the message - boost is not a factor in the life of your engine. Max power is a factor and to look after your engine you need a good tune, good maintenance with quality synthetic oil and sympathetic driving.

I've got the message loud and clear mate, so I should be able to turn my boost up to 40 psi and have no problems then. (40 psi the highest my ebc will go go or I'd go higher) so what about the people who have had a problem with their cars over boosting and costing them an engine etc?

Btw I'm not trying to say it does or doesn't, simple as that, obviously the car will get a good tune as it always has, (powertune) currently! And for the others who said bigger injectors etc, try reading the bloody start of the thread, clearly says the car runs on e85, has upgraded fuel system. Can't see how the car would run on e85 with standard injectors.

Just to make it clear it has a Walbro pump, sard fuel rail, sard injecters, sard fpr!

I just need to point out that boost isn't what kills motors. So lower boost doesn't mean it will last longer. Yes, it will reduce the potential for knock, but that's pretty much all.

Boost is a figure that combines the air volume being "pushed" and the amount of restriction (generally caused by the hot side of the turbo). So it is better to think of it as a power efficiency scale than directly a power scale. That's a major factor why you see so many differing power levels at say 18 PSI.

Now power is power, and power means forces at play on the internals of your motor. There are a number of 400kw cars running around on stock internals. But if you speak honestly to any of the owners they are generally know they will have to rebuild the bottom end at some point and have accepted it. If you want a reliable and dependable car then stick with 300kw on 98 or around 340kw on e85. It's proven that a stock bottom end can take that level and survive a pretty long time.

So I agree with Piggaz that you should be looking at -9 or -5 turbos. -7's and -10's aren't as efficient so there will be trade off. If you go -5 you have the option to add the supporting mods and go for 400 on e85 but will be pushing a lot of boost and need big injectors etc. -9's on e85 gets you efficiently to say 340kw.

Pushing above that level you can take your chances. Just want to make sure you understand that. The problem with forums is that it is too easy to read about someone's build and it seems easy to make power. There is no "easy" about it. And the cost curve isn't linear - you can't just do another $5k upgrade and hit a power level. It all has to balance out.

(long post, but hope you find it helpful)

Thanks mate very useful, appreciate the time n effort

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...