Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

timing should not be tapering down with increase in rpm..should do opposite.. more advance with rpm.

you may need to pipe the timing down bit to start then ramp it in.

Prior to getting it tuned I had a look at other RB maps and i was also wondering myself why the decrease. I have taken -2 deg off rows 14-15 in the 4000-6000 rpm range.

Will get the tune re-done shorlty

... this is closer to being the main reason ...

I did wonder why this is? is that because the duration between each compression stroke is effectively shorter?

... than this is ....

torque drops off, less cylinder pressure so you effectively can dial in more timing

Though they both have an influence. This isn't a stab, I just think that if you are tuning your own car or dishing out advice it's worth understanding the fundamentals a bit better yourself... ponder on it. Not that I know anything, I'm one of many who have been put in their place for thinking they have a clue which might be worth sharing to help people get good results.

I guess my next question is. Currently along rows N16-N20 in the Load areas L14/L15. Timing is already around the 20-22 degree mark. Whilst some are saying that it should increase as RPM closes out to max, I should not increase this anymore, but rather decrease along the 4000-6400 rpm band where MBT is.

Would it be a silly move to increase timing in N16-N20 even if knock stays the same? Would I see any advantage or am I already at the potential limit of this particular tune?

Though they both have an influence. This isn't a stab, I just think that if you are tuning your own car or dishing out advice it's worth understanding the fundamentals a bit better yourself... ponder on it. Not that I know anything, I'm one of many who have been put in their place for thinking they have a clue which might be worth sharing to help people get good results.

Point taken on board, I actually tune my own cars and also my mate's cars. I have access to a dyno however do the bulk of my tuning on roads late at night.

However in the past instead of getting constructive criticism (which I always welcome) I get responses like "good luck blowing up your motor" OR "take it to a tuner" etc.. hence the jaded and cynically response.

If you compare us to forums like evolutionm.net where people openly share maps and talk about tuning, we are living under rocks.

I guess my next question is. Currently along rows N16-N20 in the Load areas L14/L15. Timing is already around the 20-22 degree mark. Whilst some are saying that it should increase as RPM closes out to max, I should not increase this anymore, but rather decrease along the 4000-6400 rpm band where MBT is.

Look at your dyno graph and plot out where the torque peaks and beings to decay but yes you're on the right track. perhaps the range 4000 to 6400 is quite excessive, I won't tell you what exactly to do..

also keep an eye on EGTs.. don't drop timing too much

Ok.

So assuming the Dyno run was done in 4th gear, max torque appears to be at around road speed 125-130kph, which would equate to around 4600 rpm and then starts to fall.

So assuming in this Load area, I reduce the timing to around 20deg, the remainder of the timing map should be equal to or higher than 20 deg (if knock is not reading higher, and EGT's remain the same)

post-74132-0-53537800-1394595806_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope.    Grab a varex and turn it down as you get close to home, win win? 
    • So, I've had my V36 for about a month now and have already copped an "excessive exhaust noise" notification from QLD TMR, reported by someone in my local area. It's a twin as per the original, and can have a bit of a throaty note to it when idling cold 😄 and if I do get up it a bit, it can be noisy, but it did pass a roadworthy inspection before sale, so.... ... but in the interest of being a good neighbour, I do want to quieten it down a bit. Is anyone here running a quiet aftermarket cat-back on their V36 or 370Z? And the big, bold question: does an aftermarket cat-back really make much of a performance difference on these cars?
    • The wiring diagram for the R33 RB25 is freely available, and is essentially the same same as most other RBs (just with differences as to which pin # does which job). To get the ECU to power up, you just need to provide power to the ECCS relay, and have the other power feeds that come in from the top left of the wiring diagram (wrt the ECU) that give perma power to the fuel pump relay, the ECU itself, etc etc, all connected. When you put power on all these it will just come to life. It's pretty clear from the diagram what needs to happen. Just follow the lines from the 12V + supply stuff in the top left over towards the ECU. I've even posted snips of such diagrams (not for vanilla 25, I think for Neo and 26) to various threads here in the last few months, talking about what it takes to get the fuel pump and FPCM up and going. Search these up and they will help get you started on doing the same with the vanilla 25 diagram. Hell, for all I know, I've done the same with that one in years past and have forgotten.
    • Yep...so unless someone posts up the answer you will need to probe from the ECU connector to the dash plug with a multi meter in continuity mode to trace the wires.  Note the ECU has multiple - and + (and across different key settings - Battery, IGN and Start) and most likely the power is fed from the connector(s) that is normally near the left hand headlight.
    • Thanks Duncan, I am actually just trying to get the Rb turning and running with the RB25DET S2 original loom itself  I am just trying to get it going outside the body and not thinking about the S15 or trying to match anything to the S15 loom at all I am only trying to see if anyone has done this and what pin they found to be the ignition trigger and ECU+/- on the dash connector, that's about it. Thanks  
×
×
  • Create New...