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Harro,

Item 1: NPC Carbotic Clutch Disc

Price: $300

Comments:

  • Thought my clutch died, turns out my clutch fork was fractured & my bearing carrier was the incorrect
  • Scott from Western Clutch measured it and said it's about 0.04mm worn only, near new
  • Disc is under 2 years old, has had about under 14000 km street driving and 3x track days, car makes under 200kW

Reason for Sale: Downgrade to a lighter disc that's more drivable for the street

Item 2: Toshi Remapped R33 Series 2 ECU

Price: $300

Comments:

  • Difference is day and night, others will understand
  • AFRs super safe, sits about 11.7~11.8 all the way at 0.9bar - has been taken to the track many times
  • Tuned for full exhaust, front mount, healthy fuel pump, and boost at 0.9 bar, ~13psi
  • Please check your base timing, set it at exactly 15 on idle with the TPS disconnected
  • Will install and check your base timing for free if you're local

Reason for Sale: New turbo & ECU

Item 3: Stock R33 Series II GTS-t Manual Radiator

Price: $50

Comments:

  • Decent condition
  • Doesn't appear clogged or anything

Reason for Sale: hast tag becauseracecar lol

Item 4: Stock R33 Series II Front and Rear anti roll bars / sway bars with bushing & brackets

Price: $80

Comments:

  • Decent condition
  • No cracked bushing

Reason for Sale: hast tag becauseracecar lol

Link to other stuff for sale too:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/433062-fs-syd-r33-gts-t-part-brake-pads-subframe-collars-wheels-gauge-holder-misc/page-2

Location: Canley Vale, NSW, 2166

Contacts: PM or Reply Here

As always, will trade for beer and/or alcohol too :woot::woot:

Item 5: Stock R33 Series II Stock Turbo


Price: $250


Comments:


  • Comes with elbow
  • Has minimal shaft play
  • No funny oil leaks
  • Exhaust wheel has not fallen off yet LOL

Reason for Sale: hash tag becauseracecar lol


buy my shit, will trade some stuff for:

  • 2x NEW Nitto NT-05 in 255/40/17
  • 6x 1000cc OR 1200cc sidefeed injectors

What has been done to the ECU? Was it socketed for a programmable EEPROM or Nistuned?

hey mate!

Socketed ECU with a reprogrammed ROM

Don't think anyone has installed the new Type 6 Nistune for R33 ECUs yet, I know a few of the Stagea boys have though.

Yeah I have done up a Z32 ECU with a Nistune board... but I thought a quick ECU swap for more boost would be a nice thing. I don't have the cash for a tune (and possibly never will) and i'm maxing out the AFM at 11psi. =-/

MMMMM will the clutch plate work in a jim berry pressure plate

Dooo it!!!!!!!!

Also ECU sold :)

MMMMM will the clutch plate work in a jim berry pressure plate

Can't see why not? After all NPC pressure plates are modified Exedy covers :)

Dooo it!!!!!!!!

Also ECU sold :)

Dammit...snooze you lose :domokun: was about to PM you :( Mayb I should just keep saving and go the way of a PowerFC.. Goodluck with selling rest of your goodies

Dammit...snooze you lose :domokun: was about to PM you :( Mayb I should just keep saving and go the way of a PowerFC.. Goodluck with selling rest of your goodies

buy my adaptronic ECU and it will come with a free modded car for $12k :)

I like breasts

Stock Turbo & Dump $250

Clutch $200

Stock ABS Diff $250

Stock Rad $20

New Braided Oil Feed $50

Stock Front and Rear Sways $40

Stock S2 AFM $50

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  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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