Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 2 weeks later...

Will be detailing engine bay over the w.e quick question about re locating power steer resivour who has done it and do you just remove the charcoal canister and block off pipe going back to fuel tank ?

post-59423-13990434756847_thumb.jpg

post-59423-13990434884078_thumb.jpg

I have my power steer resivour in front of the radiator mounted to the support I got the idea from a 32 at powercruise. I have the plastic bottle and the feed hose to the pump runs under the radiator and haven't had any problems at all.

  • Like 1

Onto the fuel setup as you can see I have fitted a type s tomei fuel reg. I have replaced all the fuel lines . Except the one that has to be submersable in the fuel tank to withstand e85 fuel

I am going to run the new walbro and install it soon . do I really need a catch tank for my setup to support e85 at 600 whp ? ? Or will the walbro keep up on its own obviously with big injectors

And I was thinking of running the stock fuel rail will there be a disadvantage over an aftermarket twin entry rail if so what fuel rail should I purchase. And with running the fuel lines as twin entry do they just go from each end of the rail and join into one somehow and go to fuel filter ?

Fitted my greedy oil cooler on drivers side today had to do a little modification to mounting bracket because i no longer have stock intercooler ,still need to fit up all the lines I had to remove stock bovs

Now in the instructions for the kit it has trust bovs fitted the stock bovs will not fit with the cooler I yhat location seen as though im running a single turbo do I need 2 bovs ? Or just fit 1 in its place if so what type im not into the wanky bov noise .....

post-59423-13995214836723_thumb.jpg

Stock BOV's. Leave them alone. They do the job, spend the money elsewhere.

I have already removed them to fit the oil cooler as per grex instructions to fit it drivers wheel arch.

So I need a different bov to fit its the only reason I removed them so the cooler would fit . As im running single turbo do I only need one bov

My opinion for the fuel system is to run a surge that way no mater what fuel level you have in your tank you always have a good constant, pressurised supply of fuel to the engine

I would advise throwing a dual entry fuel on it aswell me and the girlfriends car needed dual entry rails at 460rwhp on united p100

the tuner said it wasn't a issue with the presure it was an issue with volume I ended up running from my 2lt surge with a 044 fuel pump -10 tefflon braided supply line to regulator.

I then ran a -8 tefflon braided return line to the regulator

I then ran 2x -6 or -8 (cant remeber what size I think it ws -8) teflon braided lines to each end of the rail

and a return fuel line from the middle of the rail to the regulator

for 600rwhp on E85 you will need high volume and good pressure so it may be worth running 2x 044 pumps and a walbro intank lift pump to keep the surge well supplied with fuel

I've just upgraded from a Walbro e85 pump to a surge tank and twin 044's. Car was making 588hp on the Walbro but it was leaning out up top. I wouldn't push one of these walbros past 500-520hp. If yours chasing 600 or more I'd look into an external setup. For the extra bit of cash it's worth making sure the motor doesn't lean out and wreck what you've just built

  • Like 1

If you have blocked off your charcoal canister, make sure you have it venting somewhere. I just left mine open to atmosphere at the back, though can't say I highly recommend doing that, E85 being hydroscopic and all. Your fuel tank needs to vent though.

I've just upgraded from a Walbro e85 pump to a surge tank and twin 044's. Car was making 588hp on the Walbro but it was leaning out up top. I wouldn't push one of these walbros past 500-520hp. If yours chasing 600 or more I'd look into an external setup. For the extra bit of cash it's worth making sure the motor doesn't lean out and wreck what you've just built

I have a 044 intank now

So if I just run a surge tank and two more 044s ? External osnt that overkill has anyome got a r33 gtr and where do they mount the surge tank ??

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
    • 9" wheels are a little too wide for a RWD 32. They can fit. People have put R33 GTR wheels on 32s for years and years. But they are a very tight squeeze. This has been known for about 30 years. As I said - there is no difference between a 17 and an 18 in terms of what will fit. The rolling diameter needs to stay about the same as stock - not very much larger. If you increase that, you will start to have problems. If you increae rolling diamater at the same time as yo increase width, you will have problems earlier. as 9" wheels are pushing the boundaries already, you would need to be careful with tyre choice. I would put 8.5s on the front of mine, but would expect problems with 9s.
    • post up screen shots of your injector tables
    • Diagnostic flow for a code 21 says check signal at the ECU pins, on a voltmeter of some kind it should read 0.1V at idle, 0.12V cranking, 0.15-0.25V at 2000 rpm. Check each coil such that +1, -3 is infinite or very high resistance, -3, +2 should do the same. (-1, +3), (+3, -2), (+1, -2), and (-1, +2) should all be somewhere between 0 ohms and high resistance. If you trace the path from the coil pin all the way back to the ECU in the diagram the resistance you measure at the coil vs connected to the harness should be pretty much the same. 
×
×
  • Create New...