Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey man I couldn't get tomei throttle coat from anywhere ....apparently tomei don't supply an MSDS (Meterial Safety Data Sheet) when they ship the product outside of japan so a lot of countries won't let it through customs. There are some substitutes available tho.... I used Loctite Moly Dry Film in an aerosole can, sprayed into the lid to make a small puddle and used a 50c paint brush to coat the butterfly's while closed. On tomei's website it said to only coat the butterfly's and around the shafts/bores where they go through the housings but because the Loctite stuff is aerosole its super thin compared to the tomei paste so like I said, I painted mine while shut to get a good layer on the butterfly and bore so it's got a definite seal when closed. I fully cleaned the throttles with a rag and some carby cleaner befor the coating of course and shone a torch up the plenum and could see light around each throttle. Now coated, you can't see any light from anywhere inside the throttles.

  • Like 1

I have seen plenty of side feed Skyline injectors lately showing signs of fine rust blockages in the filters, and only some of the injectors were blocked, some were clean. It could be worth dropping a few out to check...

I can only think of one other reason, head gasket...

  • 2 weeks later...

hmmmm well it wouldn't surprise me if the head/block wasn't prepared properly prior to re assembly..........after asking around, i'm not the first person to have had big dramas with nizzpro's services..........

I always use Hylomar spray on my MLS gaskets. It fills up any imperfections and scratches.

At least you can do the head in the car, mine is an engine out job, and two head gaskets. :/

  • 2 weeks later...

Not only did the head crack, but i have had a super bad sounding noise in the clutch/gearbox area recently.......apparently ARP flywheel bolts are actually too long for RB motors .........

the clutch and flywheel where loose on the back of the motor....... the threads in the back of the crank are completely fingered and the center guide is slightly mushroomed.... the flywheel had to be reemed off with two pinch bars therefor a complete rebuild is being undertaken............

Gutted man..........

I used ARP flywheel bolts on my RB25 and they were fine. The packet they came in said they were for a 3S-GTE (toyota 4 cylinder) but they worked perfectly for me. Exactly what bolts were you using? A rebuild is better than losing your feet.

i used - ARP Flywheel Bolt Set (102-2801)

we measured and checked the bolts against the arp website specs and they are exactly what the website said they should be...... which is 3mm too long in my crank.

very strange..........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Apologies for the long post, but needed somewhere to lay out the entire timeline of events and actions taken:   I've got an 89 GTR with a R34 RB in it. It's been running great all year, driven probably 500KM in the last month. It's not my daily driver, just a weekend fun car.    Build info: R34 RB26 - HKS 2.7 stroker kit, HKS adjustable cam gears, HKS turbo upgrades, Trust intercooler, R34 factory DENSO 440cc injectors, JUN chipped/tuned R32 ECU. All of this work was performed in Japan back in 2019.    Thursday 10/2/25 - It's a nice day and decided I'll drive it to work, I start it up in the garage and I notice it took a few extra cranks and sounded a bit funny. I figure maybe it was just because it was a pretty chilly morning. I pull it out into the driveway to warm up a bit before leaving. As I leave the driveway, it feels very off and sounds like a misfire. I pull it back in the garage to deal with after work and take the daily to work. I was able to diagnose it as a cylinder 5 misfire with the old spark plug test (unplugging each plug until a sound change with the engine running). I take off the whole ignition system, ignitor, plugs, spark. *Important note, it is still on the R32 ignition system with the separate ignitor system. I test each system with a multi-meter and nothing presents as a smoking gun. I put it all back together and it starts up no issue. I go ahead and order the PRP R35 ignition conversion kit. It should arrive today (10/13/25)   Friday 10/3/25 - Another nice day, car starts up great and drives great all day. Very pleased that everything seems to be OK   Sunday 10/5/25 - Decided I'll take it to play some golf, load up and drive to the course about 25 minutes away. Drives wonderful the whole way there, I pull in the parking lot and the engine completely comes to a stop. I do not recall if it sputtered at all, but just remember all of the sudden the engine was off. I roll it into a parking spot, try to crank it back on and nothing.  It'll crank and crank and not even try to start. End up getting it towed back to my house and push it up into the garage.    Items I have checked: Fuel in the tank Fuel Pump relay Fuel pump fuse  Spark Plugs & gap Coil packs Ignitor    I know the cylinders are getting fuel as the plugs smell like fuel after a start attempt. I tried spraying starter fluid into the manifold and cranking and not even a sputter.    I decided to do the live CAS test (removing the the CAS, ignition on and spinning the CAS stalk to see if the injectors pulse and spark is active). All of the injectors were pulsing and I have spark at the plug. The half-moon end of the CAS did seem very loose, I'm not sure how much play is supposed to be there, but it was more than I expected. There was no in/out play of the shaft, just the tip end that is pinned on had quite a bit of play.    CAS Play video   When I put the CAS back in, I stupidly did not re-time the engine. I know I need to do that tonight, however, I do not think it will start given it seemingly was not the issue. My plan is to do the PRP R35 coil kit and retime the engine at the same time.    I plan on ordering the Haltech Nexus Plug-in ECU once they are available again, but ideally would like to get this sorted before firing the parts cannon at it and potentially adding more variables.    Anything glaring that I am missing here, I'm a bit at a loss?          
    • Get it on a dyno. Get something logging Consult. Run it up and find out what is causing it.
    • Looking for a plenum for rb25 de+t neo  Not looking to push much power maybe 300kw at the wheels, is there much difference in flow for Freddy “Greddy style” compared to original Greddy or options like Proflow or Otaku garage?    I won’t be porting the de Neo head for now as I think it’ll be fine 280-300rwkw but appreciate the help and any experiences anyone has between them and any advice. Thanks  Looking at this plenum for now below 
    • engine wise almost no mods: stock ecu Greddy front mount intercooler Greddy forward facing intake w R33 TB stock fuel system, stock injectors, rail etc. Kakimoto racing hyper 3 inch exhaust system Apexi intake filter New NGK –R BCPRES (.8 gap) plugs  
    • Nice one @Pac - looks like a fair few 1600's there! 
×
×
  • Create New...