Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

1. Pod filter question - I have an A'PEXi Power Intake and it bolts directly on to the R32 AFM. I have half the stock airbox still in the car as a sort of air guide. I want to build an aluminium airbox for it but the issue is that the pod sits too close to the intercooler pipes and stuff. How to I move it (or extend it) so that it sits closer to the headlight?

2. Front mount question - I installed a Blitz front mount (R32 GTS-t), and you know how there's that metal bumper bar thingy? Well that's kinda covering half of the front mount. Should I get rid of it or what? If I do how does the front bar sit on properly?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/44107-pod-and-front-mount-questions/
Share on other sites

2: Be careful when removing structural items from the front of the car. Even if the bar sits properly without it, minor collisions can cause massive $$$ to repair.

How much more power would you expect from removing this 'metal bar'? Is it really worth it?

2: Be careful when removing structural items from the front of the car. Even if the bar sits properly without it, minor collisions can cause massive $$$ to repair.  

How much more power would you expect from removing this 'metal bar'? Is it really worth it?

don't know to be honest. It probably will make not a lot of difference but I'm more interested to see what other people (those with R32 GTS-t's and front mounts) have done

Do not remove the "metal bumper bar thingy" ... it is not only there for structural reasons, but also it helps support the front bumper bar.

What i did when fitting my front mount, is trim the front fascia of it using a cutting disc on an angle grinder (im not patient enough to use a hacksaw). Once you have cut the front section of the support (the bit perpindicular with the ground) then just give it a quick and nasty coat of primer to stop corrosion and bolt it back on.

In a frontal collision sure it will be weaker, but it gets most of its rigidity from the section of steel parallel with the ground

Quick but obvious mechanics lesson, grab a ruler, lay it flat, brace one end on the desk with your finger, then lift the other end...its lifts/bends easy. Now lay the ruler on its edge, again brace one end with your finger, then try to lift the other end and you have buckleys chance of bending the ruler. Basically things have different moments of inertia depending on what axis you try to bend them on.

So trimming the front/perpindicular to the ground face wont significantly weaken the support as it gets most of its rigidy from the top section which also acts to support the bumper bar. Dont forget that in the event of a front on collision/ even dead centre, it is pinned by 2 bolts either side to the chassis effectively keeping the support in tension for all minor collisions...if its a bigg'n then then she would buckle anyway...well thats my thinking

There is also the consideration that even if part of the intercooler is covered by the bumper support, it will in turn be covered by the front bumper itself, so may not make any difference unless you plan on further trimming the front bar (opening it up) or installing a different bar.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...