Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Not so far but to be fair i havent really played with it to check.... They were brand spanking and still had writing on them so let me bed them in and ill check back in!

Actually on that note, i will know by the end of Sunday as its doing the Nulon Nats event :woot:

I'm sure it's the same for most tyres as the ad08r requires about 100km of driving to wear off the top shiny coating before the grippy part comes into play

  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I'm sure it's the same for most tyres as the ad08r requires about 100km of driving to wear off the top shiny coating before the grippy part comes into play

Oh FFS then i better do some K's before it goes on the trailer this weekend then!

They look pretty bulgey compared to the old 275's i ran... You can see the difference between a 255RSR and a 275 RS3

IMG_8110_zps1c683d6c.jpg

If anyone wants the other pair of the 275/35/18 let me know... Will sell for what they cost me but i had to buy 4 to get the deal...

Brand new with stickers $512.50 for the pair :laugh:

Freight additional!

There was no magical grip that i was hoping for... 2nd gear is still skidsville BUT it was a road surface so it is not the best indication at this stage!

1265536_700169503374776_1002666072_o_zps

What tyre pressure and camber? They can affect the grip level as well

Yep, i was running 0 camber but it is now up to around -1.4 or something like that for circuit use.... In saying that i went from a 265 to a 275 in the hope the straight line contact patch would remain similar, but probably not lol

Pressure was about 30 hot so a bit low from a standing start.... But i did warm them up prior -

  • 1 month later...

That's a damn good price for 275 35 18!

I'd only put KU36s back on if Maria and I are having a domestic ;)

Lololol so you cant hear? Brilliant!

Oh and i changed my opinion on the RS3 too once i had them hot on the track, great tyre!

Told ya so Matty! :D

The rears had heaps of corner grip... Straight line had issues but i had it turned down to gate pressure for the run anyway...

After a few hard laps of South circuit the fronts (Federal RSR) would start to understeer yet i still had heaps of rear grip and no signs of it fading!

Its impressed me enough to step up to the next level of Hankook ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's probably OK. That's a face to face compression joint between two surfaces with the clamping load provided by those bolts. So.... it's unlikely that the bolts will end up feeling that load in shear, unless the clamping surfaces are not large enough, bolts not got enough tension on them, etc etc to prevent the two faces from moving wrt each other. Which... I would hope the designers have considered, seeing as it's probably one of the most important things the upright has to do apart from resist collapsing in its own right. But yes, it would definitely be worth asking them what their safety factor on that part of the design was. I tend to think that the casting, being a casting, is not necessarily the strongest bit of material in the world. It's about an inch square, and when you think about the loads that are being put into it, you have to wonder what safety factor the Nissan boys (and every other OEM engineer who has designed all the millions of other uprights that look essentially the same) used to account for defective casting, aging, severe impacts on the wheel, etc etc. 
    • Those bolts would be orders of magnitude stronger that cast aluminium though.  And its mainly clamping force, not shear they are dealing with?
    • Except all that twisting force that is breaking a cast piece, appears to be going through 4 bolts in the picture Johnny posted of the BryPar one...
    • The smart approach is to use the gearbox loom from the manual car. Makes it a lot easier - just plugs into the switches on the box and plugs into the main loom up near the fusebox. Then you only need to deal with bypassing the inhibit switch. The other approach requires you to use the wiring diagram to identify those wires by colour and location, perhaps even indulging in a little multimeter action to trace them end to end to make sure, and then.... you will have the answers you need. The R34 wiring diagram is available on-line (no, I do not have a link to it myself - I would have to do a search if I wasn't able to go to the copy I have at home).
    • Hi, i’m converted my r34 4dr auto to manual but need help with gearbox wiring. There are bunch of wires no idea which one for speedo drive, neutral, reverse can anyone help me. IMG_6860.mov
×
×
  • Create New...