Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25Det Trying To Catch Idle When Backing Off

FawDawz

By FawDawz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

FawDawz Rookie

FawDawz

Posted
Posted

Pretty much as the title says. It's and auto s1 stagea but still just a 25. All stock except bov have been plumbed up. had this issue before I did that. Read heaps of forums and did most of the things suggested (cleaning aac etc) afm seems fine but hard to call. Any ideas? It's drivable but will stall out when you back off at a slow rolling speed so I pretty much idle through carparks.

Badgaz Experienced

Badgaz

Posted
Posted

have you set your idle correctly? get the car up to temp stop the car...unplug the tps....start the car...turn the idle screw on the aac valve till you have it idling at 750. turn car off...plug the tps back in.....if it still runs like shit after that it could be your tps.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Cheers badgaz will do that in the morn. Bov has been deleted completely and made a new intake pipe

Why?

Put recirc bov back on.

The reverb screws around with the airflow meter reading leading to the issue you have described.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Well, your initial post isn't particularly clear. I suppose you are in a rush for people to help fix your problem.

Somehow bov plumbed up equals blocked off?

Was it previously the stock bov recirculating as per stock?

I usually pretty much idle through car parks also, lots safer than boosting through them.

FawDawz Rookie

FawDawz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Superben. Firstly thanks for a mature comment. the engine was completely stock in every way and had the ssame issue. As for the bov, New intake pipe deleted that line, blocked other lines and put a plate over the bov where it goes into the manifold.

It's not the issue.

As for idling through Carparks I have no issue with that. It's a daily running stock boost. It IS drivable. just any speed below around 50km if you completely release the throttle it will die the revs down to almost a stall.

Productive comments are appreciated. if not fk off to boostcruising. Cheers

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Typical as the new guy to a forum you would ease into things before potentially offending knowledgeable people who were willing to take their time to help you.

It's pretty hard to judge someone's true character based on a few (or even alot) of posts.

FawDawz Rookie

FawDawz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Not sure if your trying to have a dig or not. Signed up and posted in hope of getting some useful feedback from other owners, which in fact I got. The other comments are useless and there's no need for them. I referred to boostcruising for obvious reasons. I thought maybe a website dedicated to specific cars might have been a little different. Maybe your all having a lend and think it's funny? Sorry can't tell, this is text after all. I have stated that positive feedback is appreciated and will continue to thank those who are actually knowledgeable and offering their help.

Kane_R32 Experienced

Kane_R32

Posted
Posted

+1 for BOV not helping the situation.

I have an auto R33 atm and since putting a Blitz atmo on back off it almost stalls. But I live with it for the hektik doses it does :yucky: ..

I'd be pressure testing the system for leaks as they will also create stall issues along with the bov set-up..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      When sanding across a convex panel, you need to sand, as much as possible, at right angles to the curve. If the panel is compound convex curved (ie curved in both directions) then you are SOL and have to use "craftsmanship" to get it right.
    • DraftySquash
      Looking for someone with a R34 front bar

      By DraftySquash 路 Posted

      Today in Skyline arts and crafts!! I鈥檝e made some progress.    had to put extra notes in there so I don鈥檛 stuff it up 馃槀
    • GTSBoy
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By GTSBoy 路 Posted

      So, 3 switches then?
    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 路 Posted

      This sounds like me. And then why I leave shit that I had previously hobbled together broken. Lately I've changed strategies to "If I don't want to justify the money on decent stuff, I'm not going to justify hobbling it together". I'm still for DIY, but DIY it properly is more my thing. However, I am terrible on not setting up backups still... Which reminds me, I need to go backup some of my work VM machines... Oh, it's also why I've become a lover of building things into Docker Containers... Then I just need a machine that can run docker, and bam, that specific system is up and running, on the specific versions of everything I need for it to run (In the event a change in required software version breaks something else). Also, these days, my steep learning curves are spent with work related stuff, and on very varied projects, that my want to do other random projects like build a dashboard for my own car has dwindled away to "I just want the car running", which is my current PITA, as I'm getting the Landcruiser usable again, and it has just been non-stop the past 6 to 8 weeks of buying parts, and working on it. Oh, and tools that are meant to be fit for purpose... And they break, because 25 year old 4WD decides it's stronger... But by the time I have it ready to roll back out the drive way, nearly all the stuff in it will have been touched and serviced, so the damn thing better give me NO FREAKING ISSUES, for at least the next 50,000KMs! Just redone whole front of the motor, and resealed the up top stuff, replaced a bunch of things getting perished, new timing belt done, water pump, lower timing cover (Toyota diesel engine runs timing GEARS for the bottom half the motor, and a timing belt from halfway up to the top), new harmonic balancer, fix up the alternator, new thermostat, full swivel hub rebuild, new bearings and seals front and back, steering box rebuild, new battery, and today, it turns out a rear shock has let go, so four new shocks are about to go on order, and that will leave me with after the next run of work, to see if I need to order just a brake caliper re-seal, or if I'll need new pistons in them too. Oh, and I'll finish welding in the new floor sheet metal shortly too. Presently I just want it finished already... But once all the above is done, I still need to fully service diffs, gearbox, transfer, and motor. Then flush and bleed the clutch, and flush and bleed the brakes. But enough about our waffle, back to Duncan's heat problems... I think for Duncan he just gets a thermoswitch, and a manual switch to run some water misters. Thermo so it's only on above certain temps, and the manual switch so it can be turned off even if it is above certain temperatures. IE, switch on for "I'm now on track", then it doesn't need any "smart" computers that might try and do things wrong. And switch the thing off completely on the cool down lap, so when he stops in pits, there's not even a possibility of it dripping any water out to get him in trouble.
    • silviaz
      Steps to DIY sanding car back ready for respray....

      By silviaz 路 Posted

      So I ran into the same problem. I got stuck in the cycle of again of putting putty sanding it, putting putty sanding it, because of a low spot. And notice my block is not completely flat with the panel, even though it's a long block. My panel is slightly curved. Is this an issue? Do I need something that matches the door perfectly, or no?    I do have the smaller flexible block that covers the width of the repair just not the length, I was experimenting with it again to but seems to be the same issue
脳
脳
  • Create New...