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R33 Gtst Won't Start

Skyride

By Skyride,
in General Maintenance

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Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
Posted (edited)

The car is R33 GTST RB25DET Series 2. Stock. She was sitting outside for 4 months all winter.

She will crank but won't start. Here is what I've done/checked so far:

1. All ECU inputs and grounds checked - ECU checked for inputs at the connector only (maybe ECU is fried?)

2. Ignition - coils fire, harness rings true, connectors all ring true.

3. Changed spark plugs, tried different gaps, I have spark for sure.

4. Drained fuel, flushed with fresh fuel. Injectors fire, all of them.

5. CAS - works mechanically and electrically.

6. Timing belt proper tension, no slipping

7. Temp sensor works and gets signal

8. ECCS relays work and ring true

9. All the fuses ring true.

10. Battery is good.

What the hell am I missing? Bitch won't start!!! Please help!

Edited by Skyride
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Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

can you hear the fuel pump wine up when you turn the ignition on before you try to start it?

Yep. Primes for 4 sec. It gets fuel all the way to cylinders because when I changed plugs, it was wet with fuel and I could see dropplets on the pistons. Also, when I flushed fuel, I did it with fuel pump through fuel lines just to be sure the pump works.

Edited by Skyride
Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
  • Author
Posted

do you have a consult cable and software or do you know how to bridge the pins and read the flashing dash light to check your ecu and for any sensor errors

No. I am clueless as far as bridging the pins goes. And I don't have consult either. I should probably get one. Is there a manual for bridging the pins? I have a R33 service manual but all the ECU diagnostics there are based on Consult. All I did is checked inputs to ground with meter and corresponding device if it works. But of course cannot tell if ECU fires correct outputs...

Mick Mentor

Mick

Posted
Posted

ok the procedure is on this page, you will see the pics of the plug under your steering wheel near the fuse panel, and it shows you which pins to bridge, you just need a paperclip or hairpin, what you do is turn your ignition on and bridge the pins for about 10secs and then remove it and the orange check engine light will flash a code

  • Like 1
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

How did you confirm the injectors were working? Did you take them out? If so, what did the spray pattern look like? Maybe they are dirty and leaking, thus flooding the engine.

Maybe try starting with WOT. But in the long run you may need to remove and clean the injectors.

  • Like 1
Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
  • Author
Posted

How did you confirm the injectors were working? Did you take them out? If so, what did the spray pattern look like? Maybe they are dirty and leaking, thus flooding the engine.

Maybe try starting with WOT. But in the long run you may need to remove and clean the injectors.

I confirmed by meter before, today I took them out. They work. Tried WOT start - still nothing.

Tried some Aerostart of Startyabastard?

Tried that too.

And here is another surprise. Tried the procedure with bridging pins. Guess what?!?! 55!.... I am really lost at this point :(

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted (edited)

How do you check an injector works with a meter? Just 12v supply or are you using a multimeter with duty cycle or oscilloscope to check?

How have you checked the coils? Have you seen a spark from them?

If it won't start with aerostart you have no spark.

Check coils are actually sparking

Edited by superben
Skyride Apprentice

Skyride

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

wow you have tried all the main things and more, do you have an alarm fitted to it or any piggy back computers hooked upto your ecu

Was thinking the same thing re alarm. No, it is not wired to cut ignition or starter. Just doors. Bypasses all the vitals (which is not a good thing, lol. I will rewire it later to cut the ignition). Just took the ECU apart because previous owner told me that it has flashed chip. Nope. Everything factory and no piggy backs. Got hold of stock RB26dett ECU. I know it's based on two mafs and itbs but other than that pin layout pretty much the same. So, basically want to try to plug in for start up only just to rule out that my ECU is fried. Hopefully this will help...

How do you check an injector works with a meter? Just 12v supply or are you using a multimeter with duty cycle or oscilloscope to check?

How have you checked the coils? Have you seen a spark from them?

If it won't start with aerostart you have no spark.

Check coils are actually sparking

I tried to check for power and coil resistance first without taking them off. Today I actually pulled the whole damn thing apart and tried to start with injectors sitting on the blanket to see the pattern and if they all spit. They all have nice pattern and spit nice spray consistently.

Coils...yeah...where I begin haha. I am kinda pro as far as coils go. I tried three different sets - my LS swap (thought first may be I screwed up with harness wiring), splitfires and oem. ALL of them shoot spark. The LS spark is so strong I was firing it with fire extinguisher ready lol. So, no, coils are good FOR SURE.

Aero start. I took manifold off and sprayed the stuff straight in there. It shot very exsiting flames. But NO FREAKING START!!!

Well, at this point I think that the only thing is something is out of order as far as firing sequence goes. Which brings me to believe that I do have faulty ECU. I will try tomorrow with RB26 ecu and if this damn thing starts, I am going to either buy new stock ECU or possibly to just go all out and get me a Haltech...

Wish me luck :)

Oh. and just to add. I swapped another CAS. Didn't help.

Edited by Skyride
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Was there any particular reason the car was sitting outside for 4 months?

There's one part of the picture that hasn't been covered - do you have compression? (And I mean checked with a compression gun)

For the CAS, is the half-moon key still in the end of the exhaust cam? If it's gone, then if the CAS isn't installed in the right orientation, there is very little chance of the engine starting.

  • Like 1
Mick Mentor

Mick

Posted
Posted

i know i would be more than happy to do that but im in ballarat which in guessing isnt anywhere near where you are lol, and since i have exactly the same car as you i think we should compare stuff like fuel pump voltages when cranking and stuff like that, cos just cos you have power at certain points it doesnt mean its the right amount of power

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