Jump to content
SAU Community

M35 Turbo Upgrade.

FIA510

By FIA510,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Yep I have fcon v pro currently installed. Still debating what to do with the auto trans and how to beef it up a little

What you are suggesting could well make 3 times the stock torque, if not more. If you have the Transgo kit fitted you may be ok for a while, if you drive it nice.

How far off is this high flow option scotty? Thinking I need to sell my ss1 and go something capable of a bit more power

I should have some by the end of the week, or early the week after I am hoping. Then I will fit one to my car and test it out with the Link Fury running the show. Big few weeks coming up...

  • Like 2
  • Replies 405
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

Daleo
Daleo

Get hold of the highflow built by Rick, that Scotty is using now; that thing is a monster, and seems to have no downside at all.

scotty nm35
scotty nm35

I can only imagine who told him that, in desperation. Hypergear have a good name, unfortunately the way you treat a customer is remembered long after the turbos have failed. We gave him many opportu

Daleo
Daleo

Posted Images

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

Yep I have the transgo kit installed.I think i know the company you speak of, the one you have to send them in part of your box then it gets sent back after the mods?

That would be the valve body, which you have already upgraded to some extent.

To handle more torque you need to increase the amount of clutch plates in the clutch packs by using thinner drive plates, not just bump the pressures up.

BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted (edited)

I feel the TCU reprogram is the key(2nd to stronger internals). Changing the shift duration via a transgo reprogram kit helps much less than it should due to the TCU compensating for the changes(pulling them back towards stock).

Edited by BoostdR
BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted (edited)

I noticed Borg Warner EFR's were mentioned earlier. This would be the ultimate option as I feel these are the best spooling turbo available on the market. Precision will make more power as they aren't limited by shaft speed but an EFR will smash it in average power/drive ability. I have one on my race car and spool is similar to stock. Transient response is excellent and below spool boost is available from idle. The design also allows for a large turbine which is great for reducing heat and back pressure. We recently installed one on an IPRASA car and it went another second faster over the previous Garrett unit with a restrictor. I'll post a vid of my WRX which runs a 6758 to show response. Mine does have anti lag but it was more for the crowd as it doesn't need it at all, it makes boost free revving.

So install wise of this long turbo on a Stagea could be achieved as the mount angle can be up to 15 degrees(advertised) due to the double oil seals they run. Mine is around 20 degrees and has no problems. I've seen the cosworth WRX run one at over 30degrees. I guess what I'm trying to say is if a kit could be made, you would be in the money.

Here are some pics of my install on the rex

post-49288-1444196101907_thumb.jpgpost-49288-14441961219567_thumb.jpg

http://youtu.be/d16w0PjkEYk

http://youtu.be/3xPYNoO6V6E

Edited by BoostdR
  • Like 1
Reprieve Community Regular

Reprieve

Posted
Posted

I noticed Borg Warner EFR's were mentioned earlier. This would be the ultimate option as I feel these are the best spooling turbo available on the market. Precision will make more power as they aren't limited by shaft speed but an EFR will smash it in average power/drive ability. I have one on my race car and spool is similar to stock. Transient response is excellent and below spool boost is available from idle. The design also allows for a large turbine which is great for reducing heat and back pressure. We recently installed one on an IPRASA car and it went another second faster over the previous Garrett unit with a restrictor. I'll post a vid of my WRX which runs a 6758 to show response. Mine does have anti lag but it was more for the crowd as it doesn't need it at all, it makes boost free revving.

So install wise of this long turbo on a Stagea could be achieved as the mount angle can be up to 15 degrees(advertised) due to the double oil seals they run. Mine is around 20 degrees and has no problems. I've seen the cosworth WRX run one at over 30degrees. I guess what I'm trying to say is if a kit could be made, you would be in the money.

Here are some pics of my install on the rex

attachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1444196045.156054.jpgattachicon.gifImageUploadedBySAU Community1444196117.543887.jpg

I

Your car goes like a beast! I do like the EFRs may end up putting it in the air boxs place, i built a box around my pod filter unsure if it helps much lol, either way it looks like a good spot for a longer turbo

BoostdR Mentor

BoostdR

Posted
Posted

Cheers, not bad for a 2ltr with medium cams. The slow speed track really shows the response. I do also run a 6 speed so that helps a lot also. I love these turbos. A 7163 mixed geometry EFR would be insane on an M35.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

My GTX was installed on a 15 degree tilt, I had no issues other than space. You are welcome to try and fit the EFR in the stock location, but without going to external gate housings and without the bov etc. I doubt it will fit, no matter how you tilt it. Have you seen how little room there is to work with? It makes RB26 twins look easy.

If you relocated the turbo to the airbox location it would work, but then you have issues getting a decent size exhaust through beside the engine. My 3 inch intake touches on both sides...

Small low mount twins would work, as long as you ditch the AWD, you would need to change gearboxes anyway if chasing that kind of power.

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

I took up the challenge of removing the GTX and putting a highflow back in, that's the smart option. :)

Anything larger isn't going to work well without spending the big bucks, auto rebuild, high stall converter, 3.5 inch exhaust, there is no way a 4 inch intake is ever going to work... I'm quite happy with 300+ on ethanol, it's the guys running 98 that will be limited by their crappy fuel. :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      RB25DET NEO Cylinder Head

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Did this end up working? Did you take some pictures?
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And finally, the front lower mount. It was doubly weird. Firstly, the lower mount is held in with a bracket that has 3 bolts (it also acts as the steering lock stop), and then a nut on the shock lower mount itself. So, remove the 3x 14mm head bolts , then the 17mm nut that holds the shock in. From there, you can't actually remove the shock from the lower mount bolt (took me a while to work that out....) Sadly I don't have a pic of the other side, but the swaybar mounts to the same bolt that holds the shock in. You need to push that swaybar mount/bolt back so the shock can be pulled out past the lower control arm.  In this pic you can see the bolt partly pushed back, but it had to go further than that to release the shock. Once the shock is out, putting the new one in is "reverse of disassembly". Put the top of the shock through at least one hole and put a nut on loosely to hold it in place. Put the lower end in place and push the swaybar mount / shock bolt back in place, then loosely attach the other 2 top nuts. Bolt the bracket back in place with the 14mm head bolts and finally put the nut onto the lower bolt. Done....you have new suspension on your v37!
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      And now to the front.  No pics of the 3 nuts holding the front struts on, they are easy to spot. Undo 2 and leave the closest one on loosely. Underneath we have to deal with the wiring again, but this time its worse because the plug is behind the guard liner. You'll have to decide how much of the guard liner to remove, I undid the lower liner's top, inside and lower clips, but didn't pull it full off the guard. Same issue undoing the plug as at the rear, you need to firmly push the release clip from below while equally firmly gripping the plug body and pulling it out of  the socket. I used my fancy electrical disconnect pliers to get in there There is also one clip for the wiring, unlike at the rear I could not get behind it so just had to lever it up and out.....not in great condition to re-use in future.
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the rear lower shock mount. It's worth starting with a decent degrease to remove 10+ years of road grime, and perhaps also spray a penetrating oil on the shock lower nut. Don't forget to include the shock wiring and plug in the clean.... Deal with the wiring first; you need to release 2 clips where the wiring goes into the bracket (use long nose pliers behind the bracket to compress the clip so you can reuse it), and the rubber mount slides out, then release the plug.  I found it very hard to unplug, from underneath you can compress the tab with a screwdriver or similar, and gently but firmly pull the plug out of the socket (regular pliers may help but don't put too much pressure on the plastic. The lower mount is straightforward, 17mm nut and you can pull the shock out. As I wasn't putting a standard shock back in, I gave the car side wiring socket a generous gob of dialectric grease to keep crap out in the future. Putting the new shock in is straightforward, feed it into at least 1 of the bolt holes at the top and reach around to put a nut on it to hold it up. Then put on the other 2 top nuts loosely and put the shock onto the lower mounting bolt (you may need to lift the hub a little if the new shock is shorter). Tighten the lower nut and 3 upper nuts and you are done. In my case the BC Racing shocks came assembled for the fronts, but the rears needed to re-use the factory strut tops. For that you need spring compressors to take the pressure off the top nut (they are compressed enough when the spring can move between the top and bottom spring seats. Then a 17mm ring spanner to undo the nut while using an 8mm open spanner to stop the shaft turning (or, if you are really lucky you might get it off with a rattle gun).
    • Duncan
      V37 Suspension change

      By Duncan · Posted

      You will now be able to lift the parcel shelf trim enough to get to the shock cover bolts; if you need to full remove the parcel shelf trim for some reason you also remove the escutcheons around the rear seat release and you will have to unplug the high stop light wiring from the boot. Next up is removal of the bracket; 6 nuts and a bolt Good news, you've finally got to the strut top! Remove the dust cover and the 3 shock mount nuts (perhaps leave 1 on lightly for now....) Same on the other side, but easier now you've done it all before
×
×
  • Create New...