M35 Turbo Upgrade.

[YangLIU]

Once these wagons are on boost the torque curve is incredibly flat, much better than the RB25. Makes for an enjoyable wave of acceleration. I found -4 degrees timing at 6500 rpm helps my trans shift. All other high load cells have +5 degrees on E85, light load/cruise has +8.5

I've also had great success with the EMU auto tune and my innovate LC-2 wideband. Tune is within .2 AFR with no input from me apart from a drive through the hills.

Once I work out how to get a speed input from somewhere I'll also setup launch control..

Do you have a boost curve available scotty? would be good to see. I agree, dyno doesn't show the big picture at all. A boost curve at part throttle would highlight transient response and separate the boys from the men.

you can get speed signal from pin27 of TCU. it works well for my Blitz powermeter ID.

cruise install instructions.pdf

[BoostdR]

Legend. Will post a video of my results.

[m35stagea]

It's all about matching the stall converter and turbo, I have no idea where Tao got the idea we all want 300kw on petrol. 250 would be a more realistic figure without going to a 3k stally.

This is what I dont understand. Max torque and kw are basically useless. There is no plint having 300awkw if before 4000rpm a bus will smash you off the line. Its very noticeable in these cars especially with no clutch to kick.

I have often thought what raising the compression would be like with a little less boost on a smaller turbo.

[TM35]

Big KW talk and dyno result hype is best left to the bogan society.

Low to midrange punch results in the traffic light race bragging rights not to mention retaining your licence whilst captain KW in your now rear view mirror is waiting to spool up still then requiring double the speed limit to utilise the BIG KW power. Lol

[emoji41][emoji106]

Edited November 7, 2015 by TM35

[BoostdR]

Launch control ign retard enables me to get an extra 1psi on stall. Not worth the effort to setup. Only option to get this Hypergear SS2 Rev4 off the line is a high stall which I'm not keen on, as it will need to be pretty high.

Matt

[scotty nm35]

Launch control ign retard enables me to get an extra 1psi on stall. Not worth the effort to setup. Only option to get this Hypergear SS2 Rev4 off the line is a high stall which I'm not keen on, as it will need to be pretty high.

Matt

I don't know if you have read some of my older posts on the subject but a high stall doesn't work well on these RE5's anyway, the converter is always trying to lock under load in manual mode, and it can't lock up a 1200+ rev discrepancy at 300+, I know this first hand.

You would need to completely disconnect the converter lockup which further wastes precious power and fuel, unless you can take standalone control of the auto...

[admS15]

^^How many degrees ign retard was that with?

[BoostdR]

That was my thoughts Scotty from our previously discussions.

I tried ignition retard from 0 through to -30. Problem is max is -20 and that is taken from your ign map so if you have +10 you only get -10 correction. I adjusted my ign map also to see what it would do with more retard.

[admS15]

^fair enough. Thought it would've of picked up a bit more with -20. That turbo obviously needs a lot to get going.

[BoostdR]

Yep, went from 2psi to 2.9psi. The thing is -20 is overall -20 it's on top of the +8degrees in my emu map and +30 degrees in the OEM map so it ends up at 18

[hypergear]

Looking into further updates and trouble shooting. It appears the boost creeping issue SS2 that had the 38mm billet internal wastegates are experienced with people using the spring hook actuator mod for example:

Actuator tension works against inlet manifold pressure and exhaust gas pressure, with an larger exhaust installed, exhaust gas pressure drops, there for greater inlet manifold pressure is required to operate the gate, that caused a big boost creep in mid rang. With the spring removed, the minimum base pressure should be dropped.

In this case the Revision 3 SS2 with 38mm billet internal gate is not a bad turbo, to improve transit throttle response working with auto and reduce oil flow requirement, I'm looking dropping ceramic ball bearing cartridges into those. Will update results when available.

[BoostdR]

Real world boost response results in 1st, 2nd and 3rd gear would be good. I have another 35 needing a turbo ASAP. He is not keen on my level of lag however. He thought it was awesome until I put my foot down from a standstill

[hypergear]

Matt:

I've posted this result earlier, this is from Rev 2 SS2 with actuator spring hooked.

Above results are based on P98 fuel, the dyno ramp was set at 14 secs (not the long ramp for left skewed results).

This would be pretty nice to drive as a daily in D mode, the only thing I'm concert was that boost creep. However the effect of that spring was neglected, because I never fitted one. Using the 38mm billet internal gate and factory actuator its unlikely to creep. If I can duplicate above result using a CBB CHRA with base pressure of 18psi I would be pretty happy with it.

So I bought an fully moded Stagea today as a test car.

It has similar mods as yours and same colour too lol. It is running the same turbo as yours, has a modified spring hooked actuator fitted, boost creeping to 29.5psi, after the spring's been cut its now sitting at 15.5psi. I've only made two Rev 4 SS2, one is on yours and the other one is on mine.

Car's been tuned at 257awkws, In Manual mod, foot down, this is fast. But not so much when cruising. I've ordered a donor turbo from Japan for this evalaution, will post photos and results as the project moves along.

[scotty nm35]

Pretty easy to check if it's my actuator as you so nicely blame, try dropping the spring and see if it still overboosts, the Bluebird I fitted the external gate to was running the stock actuator.

Seeing you couldn't supply an aftermarket actuator I have had to increase boost any way I can, it works well from my testing. Hopefully you can come up with something better.

[BoostdR]

Can you confirm those results are from the ss2 rev 2 on a vq25det? They both list S14 3071...

Let's also get the facts right. In manual mode off the line the car is actually slower than in drive due to the torque convertor locking up as Scotty has mentioned in the past. The only positive about manual mode is you can hold a gear at 4500rpm rpm to get quicker response.

Edited November 8, 2015 by BoostdR

[hypergear]

Trent printed that result after tuning my S14 which originally had an 3071 on it. So the page header still had my S14's folder name. Thats out of a M35 stagea. 2ndly since its tuned at Chequred tuning, not sure if its been moded to rear wheel drive, I will ask Trent later on. My car has some sort of shift kit installed, to me it definitely feels faster in manual.

Aftermarket actuators can be fitted using the stock bracket for alignment. I will show you how once I have the donor turbo delivered.

[BoostdR]

That clears things up a bit cheers.

there will be less rotating mass in rwd so spool may be better in awd. Overall power would reduce in the real world..the dyno should compensate on the power side of things.

Trust me, there is no acceleration benefit in manual mode it actually drains power locking up the torque convertor which only simulates a manual transition for on/off throttle crispness. The only upside is being able to hold gear. Do a 0-100 in manual and in D. D will be faster unless you mod the trans to remove the torque convertor lockup then it will be the same.

[scotty nm35]

Aftermarket actuators can be fitted using the stock bracket for alignment. I will show you how once I have the donor turbo delivered.

It's fine, I ended up making my own. Stock location won't work.

Can you explain the difference between a stiffer actuator and bolting a spring to the side of the stock one? Both offer a similar spring tension, mine just allows you to go back to stock or replace the spring for differing boost levels.

[BoostdR]

Depends if the waste gate canister has a variable rate spring inside or not

[MrStabby]

It's fine, I ended up making my own. Stock location won't work.

Can you explain the difference between a stiffer actuator and bolting a spring to the side of the stock one? Both offer a similar spring tension, mine just allows you to go back to stock or replace the spring for differing boost levels.

My guess would be that a properly designed stiffer actuator would come with a larger diameter diaphragm so that the opening a closing forces would still be balanced.