Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb25Det Boost Jumping

wounderz

By wounderz,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

wounderz Explorer

wounderz

Posted
  • Author
Posted

thanks mate.

i will take out the boost controller

sorry for f**king with your time then!

for later on just put a new ecu for higher boost .

but to be honest it doesn't feel like it hitting 14 psi but some days it running fine

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

14.7psi > stock boost

IS GREATER THAN

The ECU assumes a problem when it sees more airflow then its expecting so puts the thing into rich/retard so the car wont feel faster

Quite the opposite actually. I ran mine on 10psi when it had stock ECU thinking it was cool. Then one day I turned it back down to 8psi or so and it felt quicker. I put mine on a dyno at 10psi I think and the AFR's were in the mid/low 10:1 which is far to rich

Blackkers Experienced

Blackkers

Posted
Posted

man, Boost controller means you are not running stock boost!

so what you have to do now is: lower the boost and preferably find a better way of measuring it seeing as you didn't know what it was before.

then if the problem persists come back to us

Good luck

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Gap your plugs down to 0.7mm, turn off/disconnect your boost controller, check what turbo you have, if you have a standard turbo then budget for a replacement turbo, if you have an aftermarket one, budget for a new coilpacks + ECU + tune.

mic087 Community Regular

mic087

Posted
Posted

Lol.. this thread was a great read... glad I hung in there to make it to the second page.

Wounderz - We all get the shits here when people keep asking the same questions that have been covered 100000 times... All you need to do is search, then to top it all off you don't list your mods and not to be rude but do much about what you are talking about... Its difficult for us to help you when you don't have the basic knowledge.. I get everyone has to start somehwere and learn but start reading the threads and DIY articles..

As said above. remove your boost controller and re-plumb the stock solenoid and see if your bosst stays at a stable 7 SPI... if it does then you can try putting your boost controller in BUT wind down the boost level....

Thats my 2 c....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...