Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

new development: I gave up on the front left side and thought I'd try bleeding the front right just for laughs, and it worked. Front right seems to bleed fine and pumps good clean fluid out. So hopefully this proves my master is fine? And I'm thinking this suggests a blockage in the lines to the front left? If that's the case how do I deal with it can I remove the rubber line to left caliper and metal line from the master (to front left) and blow compressed air down it?

new development: I gave up on the front left side and thought I'd try bleeding the front right just for laughs, and it worked. Front right seems to bleed fine and pumps good clean fluid out. So hopefully this proves my master is fine? And I'm thinking this suggests a blockage in the lines to the front left? If that's the case how do I deal with it can I remove the rubber line to left caliper and metal line from the master (to front left) and blow compressed air down it?

As PN-Mad said; split the line first.

Don't forget; you can generate well over 2000psi with the brake pedal and booster.

If that doesn't clear a blockage; compressed air certainly wont.

Yeah but blowing the opposite way through the line might.

I'd suggest that if you have narrowed it down to one caliper then take it off and start from there. Maybe connect it to the other side and see if you can get it to work with the brake line on that side. That will completely rule out caliper. then you can mess around with the brake line.

It will mean starting from scratch pretty much but re-bleeding brakes is not such a big deal compared to the trouble you have had so far lol

It's pretty safe to say that it's going to be the line. He's already stated a few times that he tried bleeding the system on the dodgy side with the caliper off and it wasn't pumping much fluid out.

I'd start by looking for any kinks in the metal line. I've driven a car with a kinked brake line and you could turn corners by taking your hands of the steering wheel and just jumping on the brakes, lol.

Trying to blow some air back up the line may help if there is a blockage at the start of the line. If there is though, you'd want to then blow out the other line too so it doesn't get blocked. Do the fronts have one line out of the master cylinder that then splits, or is it 2 straight out of the master? Cause if it's 2 then the blockage may be in the master still.

I had already removed the rubber line from the caliper and found that I had the same problem at the line so I took that to mean the problem was the line not the caliper.

Anyway I got stuck into it again today and strangely enough, the front left (the problem one) bled fine first go through the nipple. That worries me a bit, because really only clean fluid and air came out so I'm not sure if I've cleared a blockage or just dislodged it to somewhere else lol. After that I bled the front right again no problems, then bled the master and got a little air through that but it came good after a few pumps.

I then went to the back left to start the whole process again and the back left went fine no air came out. The back right keeps giving me fluid and then air for some reason, even after we did it more than 20 times or so. Anyway it got dark so I'll have another crack at that one tomorrow and hopefully it gets there eventually.

  • Like 1

Also someone suggested earlier to try this with the engine running so should I be doing that? The reason I havent tried that already is because the battery is dead and it's a bit of pain to jumpstart it where it's currently parked - I'd probably have to put it back on the ground and roll it back or maybe get a second set of jumper leads to extend the length. Having said that if having the car running will have a significant impact then I'll do it.

Appreciate all the help guys I'm determined to have brakes!

Well I'm stumped again. The problem on the front left seems to have resolved itself but now I keep getting air through the rear right. I put almost a whole bottle of fluid through the resi and still get big bubbles.

This is really starting to get me down :|

Edited by mistermeena

I thought I responded to this yesterday? Must've hit the back button instead of submit

The air coming out of your caliper is most likely air from the rubber drain hose you're using. Is the fluid draining out of the hose and getting displaced by air (not the brake hose, but drain hose you're using to drain the excess fluid into a container). I assume you're attaching a drain hose to the nipple and running the spent fluid into a jar / bottle of some sort. if you remove the hose from the nipple between bleeds, the fluid drains out and it fills with air (if it's a small diameter hose, and you don't disconnect from the nipple, then the fluid stays in the hose due to "suction"). I got caught this way on a Datto 1600 many moons ago.

Make sure this isn't what's happening. I find it highly unlikely that you are sucking air into the brake system. If you had a leak that big, then it would be pissing fluid out under pressure.

Also, you don't need the engine running to bleed brakes. Won't make a difference to your needs. How do you think race cars without a brake booster effectively bleed brakes (given some of them will bleed brakes after every session)

Yeah the procedure is correct so I guess I'll have to start looking for a new master

Warps: What I'm getting is maybe 2-3cm of fluid in the drain hose, then a big(ish) bubble, then another 2-3 cm of fluid. And it just goes on like that forever. I've been over all the lines there's no fluid leaking out anywhere and all the hoses and nipples are tight. Also, I've still got no pedal feel it goes right to the floor. If I pump the pedal with the nipple closed it goes slightly harder and stops at maybe 3/4 to the floor.

I ended up running the car yesterday and I noticed that the idle drops slightly when I press the brake. Is this likely to be related to my problem? Does it suggest a faulty brake booster or master? It didn't have this problem before I changed the calipers

Edited by mistermeena

So i did the gravity bleed thing this morning and I now have working brakes, with seemingly good pedal feel. I dont know wtf was happening there, but I'll be getting my mechanic to check the brakes out for me anyway.

cheers guys suggestions were very helpful.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • My dream is also to have a proper hoist, but I don't think it will ever happen. My quickjack is probably as close as I'll ever get, it really is very good though. 
    • Yeah we keep on in the dailies, it is pretty poor how many animals get hit and the driver leaves without checking....have saved a couple of little ones over the years. Bit of a gruesome job though, pouches generally need to be cut open because they are so tight and often the joey doesn't realise mum is gone so they are still locked onto the teat. I checked the modules in front of the DS wheel where an oil cooler should go.... There is the radar unit - that can go for race use) One of the 2 HX water pumps, the silver cylinder. That needs to be kept but might be able to be relocated But the bad news, the big computer mounted vertically in front of the wheel (blocking any potential air exit) is the electric steering computer. That is required until/unless i do a hydraulic steering conversion, and in CAD based modern car design it is not like I can just pop a big unit like that somewhere else (plus the loom would be too short anywhere else too). So, the passenger side is OK to clear out (just use a smaller washer reservoir, potentially elsewhere), but the DS no beuno
    • Well, all the best with the new camry It was interesting to hear about the UK process, it is generally a lot more streamlined here with a shipping agent looking after all the import side (noting the exact final price can still be a surprise.....) and I've used a few different brokers on the japan (or US) side, and never had any trouble with any of them....luck of the draw I guess. You mentioned you didn't get the auction sheet (understandable since you bought it from a dealer, not auction), but I always try and get hold of that because they are pretty thorough. I've imported 2x R grade vehicles over the years and both were fine, repairs in Japan are pretty thorough compared to here in Oz.
    • BTW I measured the jack I have, it is 70mm at the saddle but you only have about 700 until it returns to 150mm high at the cylinder so it is good but no magic bullet.
    • My experience with Rising Sun Exports Before agreeing to the sale I tried to do as much research as I could (obviously), his Facebook reviews are 98% and he goes Live at least once or twice a week. I contacted 2 people in the UK who had used him for their imports, both had positive feedback. His explanation and talk through of the import process was thorough, answering any query no matter how stupid it was. It felt as soon as the money was sent, communication dropped off. I asked for shipping updates every 2 weeks or so, not wanting to pester him, he never had any updates. I wasn't informed the car had been dropped off at the port, I only found out by his Facebook story. I asked for the photos taken at the port, knowing he would need some for insurance purposes. I received a few 5 second clips and that's it. When asked again, he said his staff had them. Weeks later I asked again, he tells me he doesn't have any, but does have 50 photos from the original advert. I never received them. I eventually got the documents sent via WhatsApp after I mentioned the port was requesting them. I purchased a CarVX report, to find out the vehicle is a Grade R with recorded accident damage, first recorded in 2017 when it was first auctioned. He never told me the grade, then again I didn't ask. His response was "Grade R means nothing, it wasn't chassis damage". Still, I would have liked to have been informed about it. Jon prides himself on being open and honest when it comes to inspecting cars, it's his main job doing so at the auctions for customers. When the vehicle arrived in the UK I noticed a few little cosmetic issues. It's a 21 year old car so it wasn't going to be mint condition. The side skirts are cracked on each corner and the sealant is failing. The front grill on the bonnet/hood isn't secured very well, mounting studs are missing. Both minor things, but again, it would have been nice to be told. During a Facebook Live walk around video of the vehicle, he mentioned it has a front Whiteline anti roll bar/sway bar. While on the inspection ramp, I noticed the stock item has been installed. When first questioned, his response was "the ARB? Switched? Since when, it never had them". Since sending video and photo evidence I've not received a response. I'm probably being over critical of the overall condition of an old car, but all I wanted was honesty (which he claims to have). I'm aware I wasn't his only customer, he's busy doing XYZ but other reviews praise him for great communication with regular updates and photos, I felt I didn't receive the same treatment. 
×
×
  • Create New...