Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Ive recently had a starting issue. tried changing the plugs and testing for spark. Tested the CAS by spinning it. Checked for fuel after the rail. got the car started by spraying start aid to the intake. It started straight away. but when throttle is applied it seem to die or drop revs till it dies.

ive recently started using united e85 so im thinking maybe dirty injectors. But when the car started it ran for 10mins without a problem. but dies when revs applied. The first time this issue occured the car died in the middle of the road, lost all power but the revs were still present. As soon i applied more throttle it died. Thereafter never managed to start it till now.

any help is appreciated as im trying to to waste money on something that isnt broke.

R3GTT, VIPEC PLUGIN

post-77241-0-33063700-1398930160_thumb.png

post-77241-0-17230300-1398930194_thumb.png

post-77241-0-22475200-1398930520_thumb.png

post-77241-0-09782900-1398930539_thumb.png

Does the FP Speed light up green when you blip the throttle?

Can you post up the fuel and IGN tables as well?

have you done the TPS and MAP calibrations (looks like you have)

Are the injectors set right?

Is the intake air temp sensor right when it says 11 degrees? Seems awful cold for this time of the year but might just be that cold there lol

mine seems to be a lil like that at the monent, i will run a bottle of injector cleaner through mine, you should do the same cos its cheap and even if it doesnt help at least your injectors will be clean lol

Edited by Mick

Get the injectors flow tested, I have seen so many sets lately blocked with black gunk... You will be chasing your tail until you know they are all flowing fine.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge also?

I always run a bottle of injector cleaner every month when I change oil. I probably use a bottle to half a tank which is more concentrated.
I have a fuel pressure gauge too bumped up the pressure to 50psi. Didn't really help.
I really hope it's the injectors because they take a fair bit of effort to remove.

But yes ill get them flow tested and cleaned and possibly source o new filter baskets for them. Were they ASNU1100CC by anychance?

ive attached the fuel and ignition tables

post-77241-0-30801900-1399019016_thumb.png

post-77241-0-79532700-1399019036_thumb.png

post-77241-0-38065800-1399019266_thumb.png

10 degrees and 4 degrees? Is it really that cold there? lol

Also, and this might just be me, but I think a bottle of injector cleaner a month is a bit excessive. I never used it with my NISMO 555's and never had any issues for 2 or 3 years

Good to hear.

I have asked my injector specialist for some heated e85 specific injectors for this very reason, should fix all our cold start issues... If they can get us some, or get them designed and built.

I can see the fuel gauge dropping on cold start as I drive up the street. If these injectors fall through I may have to swap back to pootrol this winter.

yeah i thought im going crazy but the gauge moves a lot quicker just after starting it. Not sure how other peoples setups are working on E85 but here in Canberra on the very first start you need to try atleast twice for it to start. Thereafter it starts on first go , if that makes sense. I have ASNU1100CC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)
    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
×
×
  • Create New...