Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Ive recently had a starting issue. tried changing the plugs and testing for spark. Tested the CAS by spinning it. Checked for fuel after the rail. got the car started by spraying start aid to the intake. It started straight away. but when throttle is applied it seem to die or drop revs till it dies.

ive recently started using united e85 so im thinking maybe dirty injectors. But when the car started it ran for 10mins without a problem. but dies when revs applied. The first time this issue occured the car died in the middle of the road, lost all power but the revs were still present. As soon i applied more throttle it died. Thereafter never managed to start it till now.

any help is appreciated as im trying to to waste money on something that isnt broke.

R3GTT, VIPEC PLUGIN

post-77241-0-33063700-1398930160_thumb.png

post-77241-0-17230300-1398930194_thumb.png

post-77241-0-22475200-1398930520_thumb.png

post-77241-0-09782900-1398930539_thumb.png

Does the FP Speed light up green when you blip the throttle?

Can you post up the fuel and IGN tables as well?

have you done the TPS and MAP calibrations (looks like you have)

Are the injectors set right?

Is the intake air temp sensor right when it says 11 degrees? Seems awful cold for this time of the year but might just be that cold there lol

mine seems to be a lil like that at the monent, i will run a bottle of injector cleaner through mine, you should do the same cos its cheap and even if it doesnt help at least your injectors will be clean lol

Edited by Mick

Get the injectors flow tested, I have seen so many sets lately blocked with black gunk... You will be chasing your tail until you know they are all flowing fine.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge also?

I always run a bottle of injector cleaner every month when I change oil. I probably use a bottle to half a tank which is more concentrated.
I have a fuel pressure gauge too bumped up the pressure to 50psi. Didn't really help.
I really hope it's the injectors because they take a fair bit of effort to remove.

But yes ill get them flow tested and cleaned and possibly source o new filter baskets for them. Were they ASNU1100CC by anychance?

ive attached the fuel and ignition tables

post-77241-0-30801900-1399019016_thumb.png

post-77241-0-79532700-1399019036_thumb.png

post-77241-0-38065800-1399019266_thumb.png

10 degrees and 4 degrees? Is it really that cold there? lol

Also, and this might just be me, but I think a bottle of injector cleaner a month is a bit excessive. I never used it with my NISMO 555's and never had any issues for 2 or 3 years

Good to hear.

I have asked my injector specialist for some heated e85 specific injectors for this very reason, should fix all our cold start issues... If they can get us some, or get them designed and built.

I can see the fuel gauge dropping on cold start as I drive up the street. If these injectors fall through I may have to swap back to pootrol this winter.

yeah i thought im going crazy but the gauge moves a lot quicker just after starting it. Not sure how other peoples setups are working on E85 but here in Canberra on the very first start you need to try atleast twice for it to start. Thereafter it starts on first go , if that makes sense. I have ASNU1100CC

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hello, sorry for being late to join the discussion, but my clock just died on me.   Ive tried to look at Michaels digital clock repair.docx and it doesnt work maybe the file has expired.   Please let me know if you can re upload it or take some youtube videos to show us how to get the clock installed? thanks
    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
×
×
  • Create New...