Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Missing At High Rpm... Possible Causes?

nuci_gtr
 Share

Recommended Posts

nuci_gtr Enthusiast

nuci_gtr

Posted
Posted

Hey all,

My gtr has had this issue since I bought it, it drives fine when kept under about 5000rpm, but above that it sounds like it's missing or something.

I've done a bit of research and some people say it could be a coilpack/ignitor issue, others say coilpack harness, or that it is just leaning out at the top end and that an ecu and tune will fix it.

Drives completely fine even at wot under about 5000rpm, and on some occasions it will rev out to redline nice and smoothly. Has an intake, 3.5" exhaust, stock ecu and some sort of blowoff valve (came with the car :s).

Any ideas? Just don't wanna shell out big $ for a haltech or something when it could be a much simpler, cheaper fix. Any help greatly appreciated. Cheers.

owen1r Collaborator

owen1r

Posted
Posted (edited)

It won't be the car leaning out.. You won't need an aftermarket ECU to fix this.

Borrow a mates coilpacks/ignitor/loom and see if it fixes it, no need to shell out for new splitfires ect if it isn't the issue.

I would recommend you get rid of the BOV.

Edited by owen1r
KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Simple solutions first. Have you replaced the plugs and gapped them down to 0.8mm? I would suggest returning to stock bovs but you probably don't even have the piping let alone the bovs. Not to say that yours is faulty - try to find out what it is.

If your coils are the originals its quite possible they are on the way out but you could try a thorough clean and spray with liquid insulation - there is a good "how to " somewhere.

Same with the fuel pump. Can you access a fuel pressure meter?

If it is stock (apart from the bov) you shouldn't need an aftermarket ecu although it would be nice.

nuci_gtr Enthusiast

nuci_gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I have also noticed that under hard acceleration that on some occasions the fuel light pops on for a second or two, even on a full tank. Could this be fuel pressure related? I raised the issue on here a whole back, most people said it'd just be a dirty float in the fuel tank or something harmless.

I don't have a fuel pressure meter, I could take it to a shop but when I'm asking them to help me with an issue I have limited knowledge on, I can just see that they'll see me coming and I'll be replacing parts that have nothing wrong.

But I might start with the spark plugs and coilpacks, just wanted to get a few opinions first.

Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted

Could be anything.

But more than likely is the most common cause ever discussed on this forum. Coilpacks.

Seriously, they are old,along with everything else in the car.

Or your car could be an absolute piece of shit. Hard to say from here.

nuci_gtr Enthusiast

nuci_gtr

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Just an update, fitted new splitfires and ngk spark plugs gapped at 0.8mm and the misfire is gone. Revs out to redline nice and smooth, no hesitation or backfires or anything. Thanks to those who made a positive contribution, that's what these forums are all about.

And hey I guess I'd rather pick the kids up from school in a stagea than a tarago ;)

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
    • Duncan
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Duncan · Posted

      Can I suggest you try EBC directly again and link them to as many competitor catalogues as you can to show their listing is incorrect, eg https://dba.com.au/product/front-4000-series-hd-brake-rotor-dba42304/ If you have access to an R33 GTST VIN and your VIN, you could also use a Nissan Parts lookup like Amayama to show them the part number is different between 33 GTST and 34 GTT which may get their attention
    • Kapr
      What brakes on R34 GTT(Europe)

      By Kapr · Posted

      So i got reply from EBC and they just this site where you can clearly see those 296mm fronts on R34 GTT. I send them photos and "quotes" that 296mm are not for 34 GTT and they are too small. But it will be very hard to return them cuz nobody here knows 100% and they just copy those EBC catalogue :-D https://ebcbrakesdirect.com/automotive/nissan/skyline-r34
    • 04-LOOX
      R34 GTR Vspec Garage Sale - All must go!

      By 04-LOOX · Posted

      Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
×
×
  • Create New...