Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Those are for Diesel school buses. They are not effective for high performance petrol in today's standard.

a lot of people would disagree with this comment,

these turbos are very successful in nz,

don't see many garretts doing this

https://www.facebook.com/255636937679/photos/pb.255636937679.-2207520000.1419299298./10152326460922680/?type=3&theater

Edited by Benny123r33

a lot of people would disagree with this comment,

these turbos are very successful in nz,

don't see many garretts doing this

https://www.facebook.com/255636937679/photos/pb.255636937679.-2207520000.1419299298./10152326460922680/?type=3&theater

Whilst the curves look good (just spend an hour going over his facebook page)

They all seem to fall over at 5000-5500rpm on a small motor.... gives most of the results I saw a 2000rpm powerband at best.

So bulk midrange is great for a lot of guys. but for me, having to shift up at 5000rpm on a motor that revs to 7500 would annoy the shit out of me,because I'd go from having 400kw to >200 after every gear change

  • 6 years later...
On 18/05/2014 at 9:38 PM, Lithium said:

Not true, there are Holsets which perform very well on performance petrol motors- you have to get the right combos but there are varieties of HX35 which have been used very successfully on RB25s- I very nearly bought one instead of the GT3076R, only reason I didn't was I at the time figured I didn't want an external wastegate/aftermarket manifold setup.

Thought I'd randomly bump this thread because of a strange unfolding of events.

As I implied here, a Holset HX35 was my "first choice" for my R33 GTS25t but at the time it was not so easy or cost effective to get an aftermarket exhaust manifold which would suit my needs and I was kind of interested in seeing what I could do with the IWG GT3076R and had quite a bit of fun with that.   When I decided to move on from the car I sold the GT30R setup to a mate and reverted the car to a stock turbo before selling.

Some time down the track the new owner of my car asked about it and was thinking of replicating what I had done, and I mentioned that I probably wouldn't do the same now as I hated the IWG setup - and after a mix of "things falling into place" etc he ended up doing the setup I would have done in the first place.   There are aspects of this setup which are better than what I had (ID1000s instead of Nismo 555cc, G4+ Link controlling everything instead of V5 Link and Apexi AVCR, GReddy intake manifold and Sinco exhaust manifold instead of stock manifolds, and a NZ Wiring cam trigger setup) but other than the ECU and injectors everything else would have been doable at the time I did it back in 2006. 

We didn't push it especially hard, it runs the smaller T3 undivided exhaust housing and I was starting to see hints of climbing EMAP - the aim was a responsive 300kw @ hubs on 98 so we called it a day at just over 310kw on 20psi.   The wastegate opens around 3300-3400rpm, and the thing basically drives like a stock turbo.   I've mapped target boost against throttle angle and if you're over 3500rpm then the target boost and actual boost track almost like it's an NA style log, the thing would have murdered my old GT3076R in terms of response and made a good 20kw @ hubs more.

Kinda makes me wish I did go the Holset in the first place, and really I think even though it is using an old "truck" turbo the result still stands up pretty well for things making this kind of power on 98.

image.thumb.png.df6d755a9c5c9682357e51d2372a0843.png

 

Edited by Lithium
  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • With stone chips, you really can't just try to fill them. You really have to sand that spot to lower the edges of the chip, so that the filler will end up covering a wider patch than just the chip. Otherwise, you're trying to have a sharp edged paint surface match up to some filler, and they just do not sand the same and you always end up with a noticable transition. A bunch of adjacent chips should be well sanded back, to round off all those edges, and use a lot (in a relative sense) of filler to raise the whole area back.
    • To expand on this to help understanding... The bigger/longer the block is, the more it's going to work to sit on your far away high areas, and not touch the low stuff in the middle. When you throw the guide coat, and give it a quick go with a big block, guide coat will disappear in the high spots. If those high spots are in the correct position where the panel should be, stop sanding, and fill the low spots. However, using a small block, you "fall off" one of the high spots, and now your sanding the "side of the hill". Your little block would have been great for the stone chips, where you only use a very small amount of filler, so you're sanding and area let's say the size of a 5/10cent piece, with something that is 75*150. For the big panel, go bigger!   And now I'll go back to my "body work sucks, it takes too much patience, and I don't have it" PS, I thought your picture with coloured circles was an ultra sound... That's after my brain thought you were trying to make a dick and balls drawing...
    • Oh I probably didn't speak enough about the small sanding block for blocking large areas.  In the video about 3 minutes in, he talks about creating valleys in the panel. This is the issue with using a small sanding block for a large area, it's way too easy to create the valleys he is talking about. With a large block its much easier to create a nice flat surface.  Hard to explain but in practice you'll notice the difference straight away using the large block. 
    • Yep I guessed as much. You'll find life much easier with a large block something like this -  https://wholesalepaint.com.au/products/dura-block-long-hook-loop-sanding-block-100-eva-rubber-af4437 This is a good demo video of something like this in use -    You have turned your small rock chip holes into large low spots. You'll need to fill and block these low spots.  It's always a little hard not seeing it in person, but yes I would go ahead and lay filler over the whole area. Have a good look at the video I linked, it's a very good example of all the things you're doing. They went to bare metal, they are using guide coat, they are doing a skim coat with the filler and blocking it back. If what you're doing doesn't look like what they are doing, that's a big hint for you  
×
×
  • Create New...