Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi SAU,

I have a 4 gauge wiring kit that needs to run from the battery in the engine bay to the amp in the boot. If anyone has this set up, I'd appreciate if I could drop in and have a look where you ran the cables from the engine bay, and how you mounted the amp in the boot.

I understand most run their wires through a 'hidden' gap near the driver side wheel well, but I'd like to have a look first if it's convenient for anyone. I'm in Newington, so if anyone is nearby (up to say a half hour drive, i suppose?) and has this wiring done on an R34 GTT, I'd love to hear from you

Cheers!

Mick

unfortunately the R34 has the battery on the driver's side instead of the passenger side, so that means you will need to run your power cable along with the rear harness (which isn't ideal).

Run from the battery, into the quarter panel along the harness over the wheel arch then into the cabin through that thick grommet...

Follow that through and line up against the harness running to the rear, cable tying along the way so it's all neat.

Mount amp either on that hump OR on the back seat

Fuse as close as possible to the battery

Earth to anywhere in the boot with a decent sized bolt

easy

  • Like 1

Yeah, i have done mine. As above, through drivers side wheel arch was all power cables.. All speaker wires went down passenger side. I have 2 12" subs in boot with amp mounted behind them.

Loads of cable tying and youll be alright. I'm in Penrith area however have the car apart at the moment so cant drive out to see you. If you wanted to come out and take a look let me know.

Edited by Exodus01

Hey Kyle, I actually came to look at your R33 towards the end of last year, came with my mate and his white S15 - thanks heaps for the offer!

Did you end up taking the wheel and splash guards off to get the wires through?

Ah sweet man, nah didnt have to pull guards off. Theres a grommet you should be able to get to. I've just left my second job so im free weekends now if you need to come out.

Maybe i could come help you when your ready to do it. Either way man

Got a friend named Ryley

HyperSound

U2 1 Roslyn St Liverpool

98222332

www.facebook.com/hypersoundcaraudio

...can mention my name

Not sure if he'll come to you - or that you're close enough to him.

Got a friend named Ryley

HyperSound

U2 1 Roslyn St Liverpool

98222332

www.facebook.com/hypersoundcaraudio

...can mention my name

Not sure if he'll come to you - or that you're close enough to him.

Mick, have you posted in or checked out the Car Audio and Security section??? Link: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/forum/9-car-audio-security/

Thank you very much for the input, guys - much appreciated! Kyle has kindly offered to help me get through the firewall, and he's only a 20 minute drive down the M4. I did ask a question earlier in the audio thread and got the answers i'm looking for (plus i'm a stringent researcher/googler - I ask all of my stupid questions on the forums) I'm confident with all of the other wiring for the subs. It's not an urgent job either, happy to wait. Cheers!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi everyone, I'm about to complete my first single turbo conversion on my R32 GTR and I thought I would post the step by steps that I will be following. I will list the parts I have / the parts I will be buying. I will be redoing this guide after I have completed the conversion. Parts list: - 3576 turbo 0.82 v-band (coolant and oil)  - v-band top mount turbo manifold - 50mm wastegate - manifold copper gasket - titanium manifold stud kit - turbosmart 3 port boost solenoid - link can lambda kit (wideband) - link ECU - radium 12AN push in valve cover fittings (pair) - hi octane catch can - 3.5inch downpipe - screamer pipe - pipe from turbo to intercooler - intake pipe setup - power steering relocation kit - oil drain block off plate - coolant and oil lines Now onto the step by step guide (please add / correct me if there's anything I missed: 1. remove fluids, twin turbo pipes, pod filters and afm's 2. remove the factory coolant hardlines from the hot side. 3. remove heat shields  4. remove the downpipe 5. remove turbos and manifolds 6. remove factory manifold studs 7. clean whatever mess you have made 8. install power steering relocation kit 9. install new manifold studs 10. install new turbo manifold with gasket 11. install new wastegate with screamer pipe 12. install new turbo  13. install new coolant and oil lines  14. install rear oil drain block off plate 15. stop and appreciate that you now have a single turbo in your GTR 16. wipe away tears of joy and install downpipe 17. install the wideband sensor into downpipe 18.install pipe to connect turbo to intercooler 19 .remove stock boost solenoid  20. install new boost solenoid 21.  install intake setup 22. setup the rest of the can lambda kit with the ecu  23. refill fluids and hope for the best 24. ask forums for help with issues 25. fix issues 26. drive your single turbo swapped r32 GTR into the sunset. Doneeeeeeeeeee. Now I know this isn't detailed at all but I will be doing that when the conversion is done. I will be posting pics and any helpful details i can and ill make sure to fit in as much information as I can. If there's anything I should know before i do this PLEASE let me know. Stay tuned for what's next. Thanks...
    • I have wasted too much time on this, more than I am willing to admit. I hope someone can set the record straight for me.  I want to replace my Nismo (non GT pro, non GT) standard 2 way in my R33 GTST with a 1.5 way... Ideally I want to get an ATS 1.5 way Carbon LSD, but I don't want to reuse my 29 spline 5x1 axle stubs, and new 30 spline 5x1's are impossible to get a hold of ($$$), and I don't want to drop the cash on going to 6x1 stubs and axles ATM. Which leads me to the Nismo GT Pro 38420-RSS15-B5 or RSS20, as they come with new axle stubs meant for the diff, and is "Convertible" from a 2 way or 1.5 way to "Other ways", but that is where I am stuck as the documentation is a bit all over the place.  To sum up what I have found I believe the all the Nismo GT Pro PN's are convertible from 2 way, 1.5 way, and 1 way; but Nismo sells 2 skus (2 & 1.5) so people do not have to disassemble to convert it.  I found this thread on 350z but it left the question unanswered. https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/620032-nismo-gt-pro-lsd-1-5-vs-2-way-and-torque.html  Essentially the way I think it all works out is like follows...  2 way  1 way  and 1.5 way would be the center pinion shaft in the 1 way block, but with the with the center flipped 180*. So the ramped side of the pinion would face the 1 way gate and act like a ramp.    I can only get my hands on the 2 way in the states, and I am not trying to get stuffed on tariffs by ordering from Japan or anywhere else. I want to confirm that if I get the 2 way I can convert it to the 1.5.     
    • Hi everyone, I have purchased my first GTR and I want to do a single turbo conversion to it. I've been doing as much research as i can and there are a few things that I can find and need to know. I need to run a coolant feed, coolant return, oil feed and oil return for my turbo setup. Here's what I know so far: On the hot side of the rb26 there is coolant feed, oil feed and oil return. Coolant return will be going around the front of the engine to where the thermostat is located. I will need to block off the rear oil return port. I will be running a turbosmart boost solenoid so any of the factory boost stuff wont be needed. Now onto what I don't know: 1. What do I do with the coolant / vacuum hardlines that run around the back of the motor?. 2. What do I block off or loop or move or remove?. I will be running the OEM intake manifold. 3. Is there anything in particular I need to buy for the cold side of the rb26?. I already have the intercooler and pipes sorted. If you have any pictures or information it would be appreciated. Thanks....  
    • The fab work can be as simple as a couple of silicon hoses and clamps to the factory piping. 
    • Just sounds like either way you need to do some fab work to get everything to fit, so why limit yourself at that point? If the GCG high flow option is zero effort in and out swap though I'd probably do that. It's almost certainly lowest risk, lowest cost, etc. The HKS GTIII-RS option that Kapr mentioned is laughably expensive for what it is, they charge the exact same for two turbos on the RB26 so their margins are off the charts on that thing.
×
×
  • Create New...