Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys some help needed please

I want to degree my tomei poncams B's

My setup is flowed and ported head with a set of -5's

So from some searching I see setting them 2 degrees advanced on intake and 4 degrees retard on exhaust side, I,m happy to try those settings for the initial setup but would like to k ow if that is 2 degrees on the cams or 2 degrees on the crank

Just want to be sure on my starting point and don't want fcuk something up

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443538-degree-tomei-poncams-type-b-rb26/
Share on other sites

It's been awhile since I had Type BS but from memory the setting I used where 4 adv on intake and 9 ret on ex giving a 106 lobe centres, when I brought the car the cams where at 12deg on in and 14deg on ex which made it lumpier the a bridge port :(

The markings are in crank degrees so one mark is 2degs on crank

Make sure you degree them and set them to the paper specs that came with them, then note what your cam gears are set at, whatever they are set at is your true zero degrees.

Point being if you have shaved the head, played with gasket thicknesses, etc zero on the cam gears is not necessarily the true zero position of the cams in relation to the crank.

Get a degree wheel and a dial indicator to do it properly.

Hi Guys

just out of interest, when finding true TDC would You set your CAS timing to this new mark or to the old mark on the belt cover?

I followed this procedure to get true tdc http://www.nicoclub.com/archives/how-to-degree-an-rbxxdettt-camshaft.html

and it is a bit away from where it would be for a stock setup

  • Like 1

When you find true TDC you can mark the balancer pulley with a fresh mark to line up with the pointer. And of course can mark +5, +10, +15 degrees also if you like. When playing with the CAS, you don't pay any attention to where the CAS says it's pointing, for the same reasons you don't trust the zero positions on the cam gears....it's always adjusted to what's going on down at the crank.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A few small updates since the previous post and lessons. I decided to do a little interior light upgrade on the 110. I quite like the iilumo items, even if they're a bit of a premium over other brands. You'll also note the Stedi Fogs, that will go into the S15 fog lights as I needed to match the bulbs since I got the new ones earlier. I hope they fit as the body is quite a bit longer than your normal bulb.  Annoyingly, I managed to trip the fuse, which normally wouldn't be an issue until I located the fuse. I can't say I've ever come across this. I had lucked out that someone nearby had a spare, but oddly enough Toyota dealerships seem to keep this in stock. I ordered some to keep in my stash and as luck would have it, someone else nearby tripped the same fuse so I passed on the favour.  I also did a little service on the 110 ahead of some additional work coming up. It's been annoying that Goleby's stopped carrying this particular HKS filter for the 110, so now I need to keep them on order from Japan. I also took the opportunity to install a bash plate and number plate riser. The plate riser is such a cheap but nice fix to help really tidy up the car. I'm tempted to now also replace my headlights, on this car. Both items were from Project Aero.    I also needed to replace the rear tyres on the 110, and after trying to get it aligned learnt that I need to replace some bushes in the front end, so that's next.  Closing out this update with a nicer picture as always! 
    • Yeah mate, never miss it.
    • Any going to watch World Time Attack at SMSP this year?
    • Appreciate the correction on the "ground", that will make a huge difference to looking at this. That makes complete sense about AF70/AF71 which is what I had come down to being the issue, one of these. I'll have another look in the ignition wiring when I get a chance next week. I'll also make up a jumper wire for running that AF73 test.  ECU is fine, relay itself is fine, pump harness is fine and the pump itself is fine. I am going to upgrade the Walbro 255 anyway with a DW300 I have since I need to replace the fuel sender and I'm going to upgrade the FPR with my chasebays kit ready for new plenum/injectors/dbw, but I'll get this working first. That's why this is so frustrating. 
×
×
  • Create New...