Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd like to start with I'm in no way condoning street racing and simply asking for some opinions. So I'll start off with why I've made this thread. I'm trying to figure out if I have stock GTR turbos, I imported my 1991 GTR last year and was pretty much bone stock with 128,000km. It had the 100,000km done in Japan came only with Work Equips, St. May Jasma exhaust and thats it, even stock air box. The car now has 18x10 Work XD9 wheels, Tomei Titanium Exhaust and Apexi intakes. The car came with the stock boost restrictor in so I removed that also.

From what I've read a R32 GTR with exhaust, intake, boost restrictor out should make around 350 hp at the crank. I've raced multiple Subaru STI's of all years 2004, 2006, 2008 all with a cobb stage 2 kits and have beaten every one by at least 2 cars. I've raced a couple SR20s from a roll and it's also not even close. But recently I raced a friend with a 1998 BMW M3 with a stage 2 supercharger with dyno sheets showing 420 hp @ the crank so probably around 370 whp. From a dig it wasn't even close but from a 40 roll by 4th gear I was ahead by 2 cars and I had misfire.

So i tried to take off some pipng to see if i could find stamping on the turbos but it's damn near impossible to see anything. So i'm looking for opinions if you think there stock or upgraded. Feel free to say what cars you have raced with your basic bolt on GTR.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443596-r32-gtr-vs-m3/
Share on other sites

-> Speed off the Streets -> Wakefield or Winton

If the restrictor was still in it is a very high percentage that your Turbo's are stock.

- and with what you are doing wont be long before they blow the ceramic wheel off and/or you do a big end bearing)

Your first engine rebuild seems not too far away !

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443596-r32-gtr-vs-m3/#findComment-7294986
Share on other sites

I see I've attracted some trolls. Sorry for being so basic but company's do offer "stages" although I probably shouldn't feed you, I clearly stated he has dyno sheets of his car and these numbers are not made up. Putting all that behind us it has a Active Autowerkes Stage 2 Supercharger kit(Rotrex C38-81 Supercharger)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443596-r32-gtr-vs-m3/#findComment-7296354
Share on other sites

I had a 99 E36 M3 evo manual with 255rwhp (catback, flash tune) and mate had a 33GTR with 246awhp - 14psi untuned, catback and intake.

GTR pulled on M3 by a little bit. On track of course...

Your mate with the supercharged M3 can't drive or is bs-ing.... Or your car is tuned at 14psi (1bar) and making 310-320rwhp.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443596-r32-gtr-vs-m3/#findComment-7298506
Share on other sites

I had a 99 E36 M3 evo manual with 255rwhp (catback, flash tune) and mate had a 33GTR with 246awhp - 14psi untuned, catback and intake.

GTR pulled on M3 by a little bit. On track of course...

Your mate with the supercharged M3 can't drive or is bs-ing.... Or your car is tuned at 14psi (1bar) and making 310-320rwhp.

Thanks for the reply, No markings on outside of ecu heres a couple pictures off the inside.

14uatso.jpg

2dui0bb.jpg

33awjup.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443596-r32-gtr-vs-m3/#findComment-7299448
Share on other sites

Stock gauge reads 1 bar

I'd say stock Garrett T28 Turbo's with restrictor removed.

Iv raced many comos with 400+hp and beat them with only 370-380hp turbo power is diffrent from v8 power

The difference between those power figures (400+hp Como VS 380hp GTR) are marginal, you would have bet them due the launch of the 4WD system and the low down response of the stock turbos.

And there might have been a weight difference between the cars (generally speaking, without knowing what both car set-ups are).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443596-r32-gtr-vs-m3/#findComment-7299505
Share on other sites

OP reads like he is in the US / Canada where the dynos read higher than here as well...

GTR would have edge over the average 400+ hp Commo purely based on AWD and the fact that GT-R owners don't tend to cheap out on tyres / useless big rims. Weight wise, if it's pre VE then it's almost the same.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443596-r32-gtr-vs-m3/#findComment-7302373
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • forgot to mention that when it does this it does not kill the engine, but I have not kept the pedal down long enough to let it, as I see no reason to beat up on it as its got to be something simple, small and dumb causing this.  And as soon as I let off pedal, the engine returns to its normal super smooth operation and rpms re-stabilize quickly, once below 4k. 
    • neither stumble or cut really seem to be an appropriate term....hard to explain its like a rev limiter but at 4k, but it violently shakes engine and entire vehicle as the rpms will not rise over 4k, even with slow acceleration. as soon as it hits 4k, it sounds like entire spark is lost entirely. plugs were 1.1 which I used as such, but later put in new plugs gapped down to .8 changed back after issue arose when I replaced the coils, still does it with either plug gap...damn and it was all running so good.
    • Oh how times have changed! I actually lean it out relative to my water/methanol injector duty cycle. The methanol adds a lot of fueling and you can then lean it out even more due to reduced knock. 
    • Yeah my thoughts are the same, a well thought out WMI setup, would be slightly ahead of just straight E85 and you're also chemically intercooling the charged air, dropping it even further. This is why you need to add so much more fuel as soon as you spray. I remember someone taking me through their set up before (Dennis, has a R33, lives around Cabramatta - no idea if he's still around on this forum). He would target AFR 10:1 on 98, then as WMI ramped on, AFR would lean back up to 11:1. Amazingly, he did this all through his PowerFC, a relay to cut power to his EBC solenoid if there was not enough line pressure on his WMI kit. And of course, if there wasn't any boost made above gate pressure, you wouldn't be accessing the load cells with heaps of timing for WMI. One downside to that rudimentary setup, once the WMI came on, the EBC would unleash the dragon, and of course all the timing. Tyres would fry lol.
    • Shimmed or shimless, still solid, no hydraulic pump up stuff.
×
×
  • Create New...