Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys and girls just want to no what's the better ecu to run on my r33 gtst s2 my minds been in limbo for months now wondering what ecu to buy and what's your experience with the brands Or any other suggestion my setup gonna be hi flow turbo bosh 040 fuel pump z32 afm not sure on what size injectors to run oh and has anybody had experience with those forward facing plenuims on eBay are they any good.

go for cheapest.. probably PowerFC

HOWEVER, Haltech has about 1000000000x more features:

- flex fuel

- launch control

- anti lag

- flat shifting

- boost control

- internal map sensor, ditch AFM

- closed loop knock, wideband O2, etc.

- IAT input

- no need for stupid data logit boxes, direct USB

I personally would go Haltech, not bother with those dim sim Plenums and use the stock one.. afterall you're only using a high flow, which does not warrant a plenum upgrade.. save that money for a proper mechanic diff.

Thanks Luke and John haltech it is, would this be a good ecu if I wanna keep going crazy on power upgrades lol on the dim sim plenium but I hate the the look off the stock one it makes me wanna close the bonnet lol

Hating the look of the plenum isn't enough of a reason to change it and lose torque.....

Thanks Luke and John haltech it is, would this be a good ecu if I wanna keep going crazy on power upgrades lol on the dim sim plenium but I hate the the look off the stock one it makes me wanna close the bonnet lol

stock one looks awesome.. here's my engine bay

DIY-Skyline-Radiator-14-of-14.jpg

Thanks Luke and John haltech it is, would this be a good ecu if I wanna keep going crazy on power upgrades lol on the dim sim plenium but I hate the the look off the stock one it makes me wanna close the bonnet lol

halthech will grow with you.

Last my engine was running, I was at 445rwkw.

And there are plenty more with higher power then me.

As i said though, go the platinum pro plug in.

Seems to have a better feature set.

The sport 1000 doesn't have support for more then 4 coils from memory.

Think i shall be seeing JEM for the Halteck on myS2 R33 with my hiflow i recently got. Already saw a 49kw increase atw with the stock ecu and an avcr controller on the same 10psi that the stock turbo was running. The halteck can also support the very sexy looking racepack dash later on ;)

  • 2 weeks later...

Think i shall be seeing JEM for the Halteck on myS2 R33 with my hiflow i recently got. Already saw a 49kw increase atw with the stock ecu and an avcr controller on the same 10psi that the stock turbo was running. The halteck can also support the very sexy looking racepack dash later on ;)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...