Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

So I installed front sway bar on my rsv rwd stagea with the whiteline kit and something doesn't seem right with the links its making a knocking noise while driving.also have rear sway bar but couldn't figure out where I could fit it as rwd stagea doesn't come with a stock sway bar.

Took it to pedders they wernt much help just said part might be wrong but I checked the part numbers with whiteline website and they were the same pedders couldn't figure out how to mount rear sway bar either which is a bit lame considering they meant to be suspension specialists.

Any one fitted sway bars to rwd before?

I'll try a pic upload soon

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/443806-sway-bar-install-rwd-c34/
Share on other sites

the rwd does have the mounting points for the swaybar. You need to get the u brackets for it.

It also needs spacers where the links bolt on as the rwd track is wider and the brackets need slotting out a bit to fit on.

you can get away with no spacers, just means links are at a mad angle.

Not sure whats going on with the front, I still have my stock front one.

You are using the front sway bar links in the wrong position.

Pedders are clearly a bunch of absolute retards if they couldn't tell you that.

The link is supposed to point upward toward the mounting point on the hub assembly.

This is what it should look like assembled;

DSCF4538_zpsf7d605a4.jpg

To use the front 2 positions on the swaybar; you need to flip the link around, so the threaded section faces the rear of the car.

This link is a KLC108;

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC108

KLC108.jpg

The KLC109 is the link you require for the rear.

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC109

KLC109.JPG


As Ben said; you'll require a pair of "D" bush shells and bolts to mount the rear, but the kit contains everything else you need.
I hope this helps.
If you need any further assistance, feel free to contact me; I'm happy to help you.

Thanks for the help guys.

Dale the picture you have provided looks different to my setup,my sway bar goes above control arm and link bolts downward onto it.

its like the links that were provided are not the right ones the picture of the klc109 links would suit better to the front sway bar i have some pictures of stock links and sway bar below which are completely different to what I got from whiteline klc108.

Ben Im not sure if what your saying is what i have but theres a picture below with what i have that came with rear sway bar.

http://imageshack.com/a/img836/7595/gb89.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img837/9088/czjq.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img839/1336/o4t6.jpg

Edited by damfat

Thanks for the help guys.

Dale the picture you have provided looks different to my setup,my sway bar goes above control arm and link bolts downward onto it.

its like the links that were provided are not the right ones the picture of the klc109 links would suit better to the front sway bar i have some pictures of stock links and sway bar below which are completely different to what I got from whiteline klc108.

Ben Im not sure if what your saying is what i have but theres a picture below with what i have that came with rear sway bar.

http://imageshack.com/a/img836/7595/gb89.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img837/9088/czjq.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img839/1336/o4t6.jpg

Your pics show the stock links. I got a set of KLC109 from Dale and now have a much better fit.

Thanks for the help guys.

Dale the picture you have provided looks different to my setup,my sway bar goes above control arm and link bolts downward onto it.

its like the links that were provided are not the right ones the picture of the klc109 links would suit better to the front sway bar i have some pictures of stock links and sway bar below which are completely different to what I got from whiteline klc108.

Ben Im not sure if what your saying is what i have but theres a picture below with what i have that came with rear sway bar.

http://imageshack.com/a/img836/7595/gb89.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img837/9088/czjq.jpg

http://imageshack.com/a/img839/1336/o4t6.jpg

What you're saying suggests the front suspension you have is more like an S14 than an R33 then.

Would you say the arrangement of the links is more like this pic? The link is slightly obscured by the brake mounting bracket, but you get the idea.

dsc04680rb7.jpg

If it does; this is the link you need for the front. KLC107.

KLC107.JPG

http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KLC107

Can you return them for a refund/exchange?

Even if you have to take a slight hit on the price, or you might be able to onsell the KLC108's to an R33 or AWD Stagea owner at a slight loss.

I get these at heavily discounted prices; I could help you with the KLC107's if you like.

Unfortunately can't really help you with the KLC108's, we might still be able to salvage something for you?

Let me know.

Ben thanks for the pic just didn't know what you meant by the u bracket I do know by looking at the pic.so I bought a sway bar kit for my car I thought that it would come with everything to install them on my Car as its called a kit.

Dale that's exactly the same setup as my car so will contact whiteline on Monday see if I can exchange links and find out why I don't have all parts for rear sway bar.

Ben just wondering which u bracket you used and where from also did you have to drill holes to mount?

I used a stagea brackets from a wrecker, 10 bucks, but they are the same for heaps of cars.

No drilling required, the nuts are there to bolt into.

Like I said you will have to slot the holes on the brackets though due to the rs rear end being wider.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...