Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Try and get a 10 micron (or less) element designed for ethanol/methanol. Lately I have been using paper SX element filters, but stainless is fine. Mine are 30 micron stainless proflow filters, and I have had no issues with my fuel system in 4-5 years.

I fitted an Earls one the other day, 30 micron stainless, it was of very high quality and not too expensive. Speedflow would definitely work well.

Think I need to change my r34 fuel filter for something different I've hit a wall at 374rwkw running out of fuel at 6800 injectors are big enough so is the jew pump n reg just fitted only thing think that can cause the restriction is the stock fuel filter. Hoping changing this for a reusable one hopefully fixes the problem, just not sure what to get

Any aftermarket alloy filter housing will replace the stock filter, at that power I would go for a larger fine one, try and find one similar in body size to the stock filter so it clips in the original 34 holder.

I bought a 40 micron stainless element Earls one for Gregs 34, fixed all his flow issues and richened the entire map. I suspect the filters are very restricted, as he had just replaced it a few months before. The stock lines and pump holder flow more than enough to max a 460L walbro on e85. (although we did remove the fuel dampener and swapped to a Nismo reg, before we realised the filter was the issue.)

  • 3 weeks later...
  • 1 year later...

I wouldn't suggest alloy lines, unless they are anodised.

I have been running Torques UK teflon braided lines for years on my daily, without any issue. I had a lot of problems with the proflow teflon braided lines weeping from the fitting, ended up ditching them for the Torques gear, which is Aeroflow apparently.

Personally I would be running the stock fuel lines and changing the rubber hoses for modern ethanol safe hose. I have seen 450 odd kw on ethanol through the factory GTT/gtst fuel systems, only the fuel filter ever seems to be an issue.

Dredging up an old thread but Scotty you are using the Torque hose and I was saw on there Ebay site that they say it is okay to use hose clamps on there Teflon hose. What do you think about this? if you dont mind me asking.

I have a surge tank between the seat and boot (r33gtr) and want to get rid of the stink but the fuel tk tophat only allows clamp on fittings. Just wondering how good clamping teflon to hard pipes is? I could convert it using an JIC /flareless connector but they cost haa. Anyway your comments are appreciated.

Dredging up an old thread but Scotty you are using the Torque hose and I was saw on there Ebay site that they say it is okay to use hose clamps on there Teflon hose. What do you think about this? if you dont mind me asking.

I have a surge tank between the seat and boot (r33gtr) and want to get rid of the stink but the fuel tk tophat only allows clamp on fittings. Just wondering how good clamping teflon to hard pipes is? I could convert it using an JIC /flareless connector but they cost haa. Anyway your comments are appreciated.

The M and V series actually use nylon hose, sort of heat shrunk over the steel hardlines to connect to the tank lid, these would be perfect but the nylon hose would have to be perfectly sized for the fitting. They are impossible to remove without cutting and not the most flexible, but they are e85 safe.

I would usually just run the Aeroflow rubber lines, the outer layer will likely crack, but the rubber inside seems to be taking the ethanol quite well. Shouldn't weep, but then I have never run rubber lines inside the car. Otherwise just buy an aftermarket anodised tank lid with AN fittings? I just made my own.

I have never heard of clamping the teflon braided hose, only the rubber one.

Slightly related, but are there any good replacement filters with a GTR style bend on the top?
Having potential fuel issues, would be good to know that it wasn't the filter at fault. Any part numbers would be handy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The final part arrived today to un-clampify and simplify the intake Who would have though a 1/2" hose stainless bulkhead fitting designed for below waterline bilge pumps would be what I needed Test fit on a 3" offcut I had laying around to see if it would work, and it worked a treat All going well the intake will be on its "final version" tomorrow 
    • Good luck on the weekend mate
    • Must have been an absolute nightmare to drive when the power steer was out, the rack ratio/wheel size/caster is all set up for power assistance
    • Welcome to SAU, what are you looking at buying?
    • I checked the injectors again (1 and 2, since they’re easiest to access) to make sure they weren’t clogged. Even though the entire fuel system had been cleaned, I wanted to be certain. Everything looked clean, so I reinstalled and connected everything. When I started the car to confirm everything was okay, it immediately revved up high, so I shut it off straight away. I checked to see if I’d missed a vacuum hose or something, but everything was connected. On the second attempt, the car ran without the high idle, but I noticed a distinct “compressed air” sound coming from the engine bay. Tracing the sound, I pushed injector #6 forward slightly and the noise stopped — it turned out it wasn’t seated properly, despite the fuel rail being bolted down. While holding it in place, the car idled steadily without stalling and ran for over 5 minutes. At this point, I pulled all six injectors out just in case I hadn’t seated them correctly or dirt had gotten onto the O-rings. Unfortunately, I discovered that I had damaged 3 out of 6 injectors (the OEM 270cc ones) during installation. So yes, this was my fault. Since only the pintle caps were damaged, I’ve ordered a Fuel Injector Service Kit from NZEFI to refurbish them. In the meantime, I reinstalled my new injectors – the car now idles fine for over 15 minutes without stalling. I have not attempted to drive it so far. It’s not perfect yet, as it hesitates when the throttle is pressed, but it’s a big improvement. Unplugging the IACV with the new injectors idles at around 800rpm, even with the IACV screw tightened fully. But this is probably due to tune.
×
×
  • Create New...