Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I got myself a pair of R33 GTR wheels for my GTST with 245/45/17 on them.

They're snow/winter tyres since they came from Japan.

I like the size since the tyre diameter is 2cm more than the standard 205/55/16

It looks good I find and gives good riding comfort.

(have a lot of potholes and speed bumps here)

In your experience is 245/45 a good choice for your cars or gives 255/40 more control?

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=245-45r17-255-40r17

Edited by Torques

Size won't cause wobbley-ness, probably something wrong with balance or the tyre itself. I like the run the widest tyres possible, but since you have a GTS-t, I'd look at the guard to tyre clearance. Slightly taller sidewall would help with ride, so I'd stick with 245.

Difference between 245 and 255 isn't much, the tyre design/construction/compound would make a bigger difference.

Um. Wat?

20mm extra diameter is not a good thing. Hello speedo error. Hello taller gearing.

For all that.....there's nothing wrong with 245/45 as a tyre size in itself. It is neither going to be much better or much worse than a 255/40 in any real way. You'd be hard pressed to feel the difference in grip, firmness, sidewall flex, traction....anything. The 255 would be the better choice just for being closer to the right size (rolling diameter), that's all.

If you leave them on there 'til they wear out, and you want to go for wider tyres that still retain some of the extra sidewall height, you could probably squeeze a 265/40 onto 9" rims on that car. Gains you a bit extra rubber on the road and half the extra sidewall you have now.

Alright,

Thanks .. I was just thinking since 255 and 40 profile has smaller side-walls it would make a a real world difference

(just by using the link I provided in my first post)

I have the 245 on right now and clearance wise it seems ok

Um. Wat?

20mm extra diameter is not a good thing. Hello speedo error. Hello taller gearing.

For all that.....there's nothing wrong with 245/45 as a tyre size in itself. It is neither going to be much better or much worse than a 255/40 in any real way. You'd be hard pressed to feel the difference in grip, firmness, sidewall flex, traction....anything. The 255 would be the better choice just for being closer to the right size (rolling diameter), that's all.

If you leave them on there 'til they wear out, and you want to go for wider tyres that still retain some of the extra sidewall height, you could probably squeeze a 265/40 onto 9" rims on that car. Gains you a bit extra rubber on the road and half the extra sidewall you have now.

Hi!

Speedo error seems no too bad.

(that's compared to the standard GTSTs)

Look here:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php?tires=205-55r16-245-45r17

And 3% longer gearing seems to be an option,

Here's how it looks at the moment:

post-33912-0-66675300-1402147787_thumb.jpg

Edited by Torques

I run 265's on the back on 9" rim. I'd like to give a comparison to other size tyres but the last time i ran different size tyres they were 32 GTR tires, about 225 wide and rather old. Also car was stock and I ditched them about 4 months after buying the car

If you want to wait till you wear the current tyres out, fair enough. But go the 265's if you wont run into any problems with rubbing. I think mine are 265/35's but cant say 100% and too lazt to walk 4m to the car :)

Also, winter tyres won't be so good in summer eh.

Haha ..

Actually these tyres are very soft and traction is horrible if not scary!

Makes for a good show though ;)

That's why I need to change them but they're okay for getting an idea about sizes / clearance

(since the whole debate)

Edited by Torques

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...