Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Be very patient, take your time, have plenty of WD40 or CRC for all threads.|
Anti-seize everything when you put it back together, and make sure the oil feed line is tight BEFORE you get everything back in.

Do you have access to a hoist?

Apart from the truth posted above, the following will be helpful / necessary.

  • patience
  • breaker bar with an assortment of extension bars & two uni joints (to get to top nut of dump pipe).
  • drop exhaust then 4 bolts on g'box cross member. This will lower back of engine enough to get to bolts that would otherwise look impossible.
  • you'll need a big arse spanner for the EGO sensor. I can't remember the size atm, but mine got so rounded I bought every variation I could before getting it out, & for me this was close to being the end of the project the first time.
  • May need a 'special' tool to remove a heat shield fastener or two. A cut down socket welded to a piece of flat steel bar did the trick for me. (I can post you mine if you want)
  • Also consider sticking heat shield to the body while everything is out.

Hoist would be nice but I've done it (twice) just on ramps & axle stands. My son even wrote a DIY for a school project. I should try & track it down, lol.

  • Like 1

^ best advices!

A uni socket is very helpful with everything, o2 sensor on dump is 22mm but you may have to try a shortish shifter and pray it doesn't round if you can't get the 22 spanner to squeeze in.

Swivel head 3/8 ratchet and swivel ratchet spanners also make it easier if you can borrow some off someone

Edited by DaveM35

Those ^ ratchet spanners would have been very helpful. I should have mentioned my tool chest was full of spanners fashioned from tree branches & spotted tree frog legs. If my car had been put together 'finger tight' I'd have been sweet.

I guess my point is, you don't need heaps of tools, or even top notch ones, to get the job done. (but it does help)

  • Like 1

awesome i have access to great tools and i have a engine hoists and axle stands and the rest and hopefully my father has seen my struggle and he is looking at going halves with me in a scissor lift hoist in the next few weeks so i am thankfull that he has a love of cars also. It is times like this i wish it was a RB and Commsman if you found the diy would be fantastic, thank you for your help guys as always this community is helpfull and not scared to share info

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...