Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Be very patient, take your time, have plenty of WD40 or CRC for all threads.|
Anti-seize everything when you put it back together, and make sure the oil feed line is tight BEFORE you get everything back in.

Do you have access to a hoist?

Apart from the truth posted above, the following will be helpful / necessary.

  • patience
  • breaker bar with an assortment of extension bars & two uni joints (to get to top nut of dump pipe).
  • drop exhaust then 4 bolts on g'box cross member. This will lower back of engine enough to get to bolts that would otherwise look impossible.
  • you'll need a big arse spanner for the EGO sensor. I can't remember the size atm, but mine got so rounded I bought every variation I could before getting it out, & for me this was close to being the end of the project the first time.
  • May need a 'special' tool to remove a heat shield fastener or two. A cut down socket welded to a piece of flat steel bar did the trick for me. (I can post you mine if you want)
  • Also consider sticking heat shield to the body while everything is out.

Hoist would be nice but I've done it (twice) just on ramps & axle stands. My son even wrote a DIY for a school project. I should try & track it down, lol.

  • Like 1

^ best advices!

A uni socket is very helpful with everything, o2 sensor on dump is 22mm but you may have to try a shortish shifter and pray it doesn't round if you can't get the 22 spanner to squeeze in.

Swivel head 3/8 ratchet and swivel ratchet spanners also make it easier if you can borrow some off someone

Edited by DaveM35

Those ^ ratchet spanners would have been very helpful. I should have mentioned my tool chest was full of spanners fashioned from tree branches & spotted tree frog legs. If my car had been put together 'finger tight' I'd have been sweet.

I guess my point is, you don't need heaps of tools, or even top notch ones, to get the job done. (but it does help)

  • Like 1

awesome i have access to great tools and i have a engine hoists and axle stands and the rest and hopefully my father has seen my struggle and he is looking at going halves with me in a scissor lift hoist in the next few weeks so i am thankfull that he has a love of cars also. It is times like this i wish it was a RB and Commsman if you found the diy would be fantastic, thank you for your help guys as always this community is helpfull and not scared to share info

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
    • Yes they do. For some maybe. But for those used the most by abusers, ie Skylines, the numbers are known. The stock eyebrow height for R32/3 Skylines is about 365/375mm or thereabouts. The minimum such heights are recorded in adjacent columns in the database.
×
×
  • Create New...