Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello

Ive read about all kinds of turbos for the rb20 and some of the results.

Can a rb20 be built to push 400 hp(not wheel) with good response for street?

I was thinking about having the 25 or 20 turbo highflowed by Raw Brokrage back in the states.

Or maybe buying the HKS GTRS.

It will be cheaper to build the rb 20 here in Japan because if I change to a rb25 or 26, the yearly taxes go up pretty high for the change.

My car is a r32 gts-t.

Yes it can be done.

You need an RB26 crank though to bring it up to 2.4L.

That is the only way you can make a responsive 400hp RB20 unfortunately for you. Your best bet is to high flow you standard or RB25 turbo and be happy with that as it's about the best you will achieve as a happy medium.

Yes it can be done.

You need an RB26 crank though to bring it up to 2.4L.

That is the only way you can make a responsive 400hp RB20 unfortunately for you. Your best bet is to high flow you standard or RB25 turbo and be happy with that as it's about the best you will achieve as a happy medium.

Yes it can be done.

You need an RB26 crank though to bring it up to 2.4L.

That is the only way you can make a responsive 400hp RB20 unfortunately for you. Your best bet is to high flow you standard or RB25 turbo and be happy with that as it's about the best you will achieve as a happy medium.

So that means I would have to bore out the engine?

What about the HKS 2835 or GTRS?

I'd have thought a Garrett GTX2860R with an internally gated .63a/r T3 turbine housing (for GT28 wheel - I have in my head those are available now?!) on stock manifolds and a hearty dose of boost would do it on good fuel etc. If you have the money to upgrade manifold(s) and maybe do cams then I'd have thought with modern turbos it would be pretty easily achieveable, depending on what you call responsive.

I'd have thought a Garrett GTX2860R with an internally gated .63a/r T3 turbine housing (for GT28 wheel - I have in my head those are available now?!) on stock manifolds and a hearty dose of boost would do it on good fuel etc. If you have the money to upgrade manifold(s) and maybe do cams then I'd have thought with modern turbos it would be pretty easily achieveable, depending on what you call responsive.

I was thinking about upgrading cams and going with the front facing plenum.

Edited by yoshiii335

Depending on what you want to spend, there are definitely ways of doing it imho. If you wanted to get fancy you could probably do a custom small tube (~28mm ID?) exhaust manifold with a turbo in the 40lb/min range etc then things should be able to get exciting. If you are worried about down low torque/response I'd probably be wary of manifolds which replace or go aggressive on the inlet manifold runner size too, RB20s don't need much of an excuse to get weak down low so try not to give it any.

Is this with the stock turbo normal or rb25 turbo normal or highflowed for both?

Or is this with a boost controller?

Yes, that is 100% stock engine with the boost turned up to 14 psi. OK, you should have a front mount cooler and a good exhaust on it too, but these things are taken for granted as being on all Skylines.

You don't need cams, although they can help you make more up top (with less response down low).

You don't need, or want an FFP. They are a waste of time.

I wound up my R32 to about 14-15 psi on stock management and got about 165 rwkW, which is nearly 300 HP. Tuned the ECU and it went up over 170rwkW which is pretty much spot on 300, but with less boost, about 12.5 psi. This is because that sort of power is where pretty much everything maxes out - injectors, air flow meter, turbo flow.

To get to 400 engine HP all you need is a lot more boost (and supporting mods to fuel supply, turbo obviously, management).

FWIW, drop in a RB25DET with a basic high flow.. overall this will cost less at the end of the day/build.

I've had my fair share of RB20s back in the day, however even a SR20 makes more torque, power and response for less.

FWIW, drop in a RB25DET with a basic high flow.. overall this will cost less at the end of the day/build.

I've had my fair share of RB20s back in the day, however even a SR20 makes more torque, power and response for less.

Thanks for the advice. I would but it would cost too much in yearly road taxes to get that engine as well as having to reregister it with the change and have to pay more money.

Depending on what you want to spend, there are definitely ways of doing it imho. If you wanted to get fancy you could probably do a custom small tube (~28mm ID?) exhaust manifold with a turbo in the 40lb/min range etc then things should be able to get exciting. If you are worried about down low torque/response I'd probably be wary of manifolds which replace or go aggressive on the inlet manifold runner size too, RB20s don't need much of an excuse to get weak down low so try not to give it any.

Depending on what you want to spend, there are definitely ways of doing it imho. If you wanted to get fancy you could probably do a custom small tube (~28mm ID?) exhaust manifold with a turbo in the 40lb/min range etc then things should be able to get exciting. If you are worried about down low torque/response I'd probably be wary of manifolds which replace or go aggressive on the inlet manifold runner size too, RB20s don't need much of an excuse to get weak down low so try not to give it any.

Can you explain more about the turbos please. I am new to this so the figures you are giving me I dont really understand.

All comes down to what you think good response is.

My RB20 makes 240rwkw (probs 380ish? hp at motor), full boost at 4800rpm. I like it, my mates with SR20's hate it.

My result is with mostly stock motor (unopened), turbo (highflowed neo), fuel system, exhaust, cooler and nistune. Still have stock manifolds and airbox.

Any RB20 making 400hp wont be doing much below 4000rpm.

All comes down to what you think good response is.

My RB20 makes 240rwkw (probs 380ish? hp at motor), full boost at 4800rpm. I like it, my mates with SR20's hate it.

My result is with mostly stock motor (unopened), turbo (highflowed neo), fuel system, exhaust, cooler and nistune. Still have stock manifolds and airbox.

Any RB20 making 400hp wont be doing much below 4000rpm.

ohhhh would aftermarket cams and adjustable cam gears help with that? Getting something before 4000 rpm?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...