Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtst Battery Recommendations.

Tony Olsson

By Tony Olsson,
in Victoria

 Share

Recommended Posts

Tony Olsson Mentor

Tony Olsson

Posted
Posted

Ok so I need a new battery as the one I took out last night has not charged a bit since 1pm yesterday :( I had high hopes of a slow charge but alas I'm here asking what the forum thinks. My battery budget is around $100 and would rather buy new. I know $100 won't get me much but thought it be worth the ask. Thanks :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/444621-r33-gtst-battery-recommendations/
Share on other sites
Odium Grand Master

Odium

Posted
Posted

What size is the one in yours at the moment? Will have the Cold Crank Amps written on it somewhere.

Mine was in it when it came from Japan in 2006 so it was at least 7 years old when it died from leaving the headlights on too much, I've got a big one in my boot now (which required removal of the rear strut brace to get in) and even then it was very tricky to fit it (speaker clearance, mounting bracket etc)...

Where are the batteries located in Vylines?

I'd recommend just getting a brand you recognise which has a decent amount of CCA's and fits (Dimensions and has the posts on the right side / pole orientation). Ring up a few local places to see what they've got on offer since you need it fast to get it going again.

  • Like 1
Tony Olsson Mentor

Tony Olsson

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Finally have a new battery after two days of waiting. RACV came yesterday with the wrong battery then tried selling me a more expensive one, then today after ringing back they brought one out to me. After the most painful 1hr battery change over I'm back on the road again! :P Felt like an idiot having someone else put a battery in for me though! :P

colourclassic Mentor

colourclassic

Posted
Posted

My car has an SCA battery which was there when I bought it. If I leave the car a week without starting it, it seems to really struggle to turn the engine over. Sign I should replace it, or should I just drive the car more often?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Put a fuel pressure gauge on it. Replace the turbos. Probably completely separate issues.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      CAS maybe?
    • silviaz
      Recomended Coolant For Gt T R34

      By silviaz · Posted

      What copper washer do you guys use on the bleeder bolts? The existing one I have I had no idea where to find it in a local store, I did buy some online but that are only 1mm thick whereas my old one is 2mm+ thick and when I put the new washer out and squeeze the top radiator hose I can hear a bit of air but not with the old one. Does this matter? The new one doesn't leak, but the inner diameter is a bit loose whereas the old one threads on the bolt.
    • donut_kng
      R34 GTR running rich and noisy turbo coincidence

      By donut_kng · Posted

      Howdy all, after being out a few weeks ago on a spirited drive in my GTR I have 2 issues that oddly have appeared at the same time. Whilst accelerating quickly through the gears all of a sudden i’ve lost power at the top of third gear (below redline around 6000rpm) for no obvious reason.    From that point onwards the car has been running rich on idle, won’t really rev under load without a ton of black smoke and the odd backfire, and dying as a pull up to a set of lights unless I keep the revs up around 1500rpm. In addition when shutting down the car that same night (I was 10 minutes from home) I noticed one of the turbos was significantly noisy on wind down when shutting off the engine. After letting the car cool down overnight it starts up fine, although once it gets to temp the revs start to creep up and down, the exhaust is darker than it should be and it also sounds like it’s running rich (fat note) I’ve put a new set of plugs in it - no change, the old plugs all seemed OK with two of them being somewhat richer/fueled up than the other 3 with 1 being borderline. I’ve smoked tested the intake system via the front of the Turbos, found a split vacuum hose going to the factory boost gauge sender, which I have since replaced.  Also found another leak on the gasket coming off the rear turbo outlet, have also replaced this. After fixing both of these leaks - still have the running rich issue. I’ve also tried another pair of AFM’s - no change here After pulling off the front turbo intake pipes, there is obvious shaft play in the front turbo, which now hisses loudly on light revvs although I can’t see why this would make the car run funny even under idle. I’m curious to know why it’s running rich before I potentially replace/rebuild turbos. The car is completely stock <50,000kms  other than an exhaust. Oil and coolant are all clear. I haven’t bothered with coil packs as it looks like they won’t be the issue due to condition of the plugs. Any help appreciated as I cry myself to sleep!
    • Rezz
      R34 4 door side skirt identification

      By Rezz · Posted

      No probs at all. I used to love trying to dig up obscure info for those in need where possible going back 20+ years on SAU.  I did have another look and couldn't come up with any closer match. I'm leaning towards those skirts in your first pic are custom fitments, cut down/extended or from another car entirely and modded to fit an R34 sedan. I would've thought someone in Japan had them and taken a photo at some stage over the last 2 decades but there's nothing. Someone out there must know surely.
×
×
  • Create New...