Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hello I did a search for cam gears on this forum and cant really find anything.

Are adjustable cam gears worth it on a rb20? Will it help with torque?

I have a stock rb20 with stock turbo. I have a full turbo back exhaust with sports cat, and a pod and return to stock piping fmic.

I am putting in a boost controller soon and possibily a rb25 turbo.

Edited by yoshiii335

Tiny benefit with everything stock, and therefore not worth the cost or effort.

Here's a suggestion for the turbo. Buy an RB20 turbo from someone in Australia (like on these forums, or Gumtree, or eBay, or whatever). It doesn't matter if it's broken, because you would get the seller to send it to Hypergear in Melbourne. He would highflow it for you and send it to you in Japan. Much better idea than running a ceramic turbo again (the RB25 turbo).

Tiny benefit with everything stock, and therefore not worth the cost or effort.

Here's a suggestion for the turbo. Buy an RB20 turbo from someone in Australia (like on these forums, or Gumtree, or eBay, or whatever). It doesn't matter if it's broken, because you would get the seller to send it to Hypergear in Melbourne. He would highflow it for you and send it to you in Japan. Much better idea than running a ceramic turbo again (the RB25 turbo).

How much does it cost to highflow it?

So adustable cam gears work when the boost is up?

Yes. They might be worth it.

Depending on what you consider worth it

You would have to spend time in the dyno to see what the engine wants.

What do you mean what the engine wants?

How much does it cost to highflow it?

So adustable cam gears work when the boost is up?

What do you mean what the engine wants?

Too many questions in too many threads.

Why do you not use tools like google to look up Hypergear and find out what his highflow service costs?

Adjustable cam gears on stock cams on an unopened motor will definitely give you SOME result. As Ben said. But the problem is that the result will likely be too small to justify the cost and effort when you could use the money and time more productively on other mods. What Ben means by "what the engine wants" is exactly that. You can really only find out where to set adjustable cam gears to get the result you're after (whether that's max top end power or a little more bite at the bottom at the expense of top end power) by adjusting them while at the dyno and doing runs to see what results you get. The result you get depends on what your engine is happy with, and that depends on what turbo you're running, how much boost that turbo might be making, etc.

But it's not simply a question of "do cam gears give you more when you have the boost wound up?" Really, the strict answer to that is yes, because when the boost is wound up everything gets bigger, including the size of changes from non-boost related mods. But, no, cam gears do not become more important as boost rises.

Too many questions in too many threads.

Why do you not use tools like google to look up Hypergear and find out what his highflow service costs?

Adjustable cam gears on stock cams on an unopened motor will definitely give you SOME result. As Ben said. But the problem is that the result will likely be too small to justify the cost and effort when you could use the money and time more productively on other mods. What Ben means by "what the engine wants" is exactly that. You can really only find out where to set adjustable cam gears to get the result you're after (whether that's max top end power or a little more bite at the bottom at the expense of top end power) by adjusting them while at the dyno and doing runs to see what results you get. The result you get depends on what your engine is happy with, and that depends on what turbo you're running, how much boost that turbo might be making, etc.

But it's not simply a question of "do cam gears give you more when you have the boost wound up?" Really, the strict answer to that is yes, because when the boost is wound up everything gets bigger, including the size of changes from non-boost related mods. But, no, cam gears do not become more important as boost rises.

Thanks I understand now.

How much does it cost to highflow it?

So adustable cam gears work when the boost is up?

To high flow it will cost you $850 including braided oil line. I do have a couple of different combinations, smaller profiles is more relatively more responsive then bigger combinations.

Power wise smallest profile can support 210rwkws with full boost around 3800RPMs, while the larger profiles can handle 240rwkws with full boost around 4500RPMs.

The adjustable cam gears helps a tinny bit of mid range. But not a very tangible amount using stock cam shafts.

To high flow it will cost you $850 including braided oil line. I do have a couple of different combinations, smaller profiles is more relatively more responsive then bigger combinations.

Power wise smallest profile can support 210rwkws with full boost around 3800RPMs, while the larger profiles can handle 240rwkws with full boost around 4500RPMs.

The adjustable cam gears helps a tinny bit of mid range. But not a very tangible amount using stock cam shafts.

I checked out your site, nice stuff. So stock full boost on the rb20 turbo is at 5600 rpm, so having a turbo come on full boost by 4500 is good, correct? Do you have an option to get me to 400hp with similar responses for street?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Actually, that's not entirely true. It's also the same motor in the 1st gen Nissan Cube but they're rare as hen's teeth.  
    • Yeah it is always worth testing and balancing actuators out of the box, just set the pressure regulator on a compressor very low (eg 5 psi) and increase it slowly to see when they both move.....unfortunately while you may be able to adjust the length of the actuator rod to minimise any difference, the actual pressure they move from is not adjustable so you need a well matched pair. And yes, the VCAM is probably contributing; the earlier in the rev range they come on boost and the slower the revs build (I think your demo was in 5th), the more you notice it.  Driving at WOT through 1st, 2nd, 3rd etc you will probably never hear it as any shuffling starts and is over super quickly
    • oh they were with that motor, you need to remove the engine to change the spark plugs (don't have to, but it does make it easier)
    • I certainly fall into the annoyed camp, but glad to hear that if it's happening at low boost then I'm not likely going to blow a turbo and end up with metal shards in my oil. Just feels like it prevents me from really driving it without hesitation and "peak" performance. Wonder if it's the VCAM, it did an impressive job of shifting the torque curve and faster spool, but maybe now it's "too fast" and there's too much air for how open the throttle is.  Based on some other threads, will also do some reading on synchronizing the actuators. They are the default actuators that come on the Garrett's and I would think they would be set the same coming from the factory, but if the turbos don't actually work exactly the same way at the same time as previously mentioned, it would be worth making sure the actuators are actuating together properly
    • I went down this rabbit hole before, ended up sourcing a motor from the UK (I'm in Japan) which also didn't function correctly. With the original motor, I disassembled it and reassembled it and it works somewhat, sometimes. What I could deduce from all my screwing around is that there is calibration of the gears on the inside of the motor and two ramps on the main gear which activate switches that operate the motor and move the sunroof either to retract into the roof or tilt. Where I got stuck was that, it seemed in my case that one or both of the switches that are activated by the ramp on the gear did not always activate and thus the motor did not move, causing it to sometimes not retract or tilt (apologies, I've forgotten which way it didn't work.).  Of course this part is discontinued at Nissan now, it's the same part in the S15 but no other models. I also contacted the manufacturer of the component for schematics - forgot the name, they're based in Gifu - but they declined to share the information due to being bound by an NDA, sadly. Looking through my pictures now, it seems I last had a crack at this in 2022. See, I so kindly wrote "open" and "close" next to the switches. If you figure it out, please do tell me. Those little switches, with the red buttons may need to be replaced.
×
×
  • Create New...