Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Reverse Lights Not Working!

choombs

By choombs,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

Theres a plug in the engine bay, just in front of the fuse/relay box. It joins the gearbox harness to the rest of the car. Mine was dirty and my reverse lights sometimes went funny then all of a sudden stopped

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted (edited)

Simplistically, I would imagine the following:

Switch at the g/box

globe at the rear of car

fuse in the engine bay

and wiring to join it all together...

If you've multi'd the switch (when closed!), checked that the globes actually light up under a power source, then there is only the the wiring and the fuse to check.

That being said, did you check the switch for continuity? I found with my box/switch (R33 RB25), the only way I could verify that the switch was good was using a test light and a mini 12V battery.

Multimeter did not display/sound continuity unless powered!

Edited by R32Abuser
Daniel_33 Collaborator

Daniel_33

Posted
Posted

My reverse lights work for a second when I put it into reverse then go off. Not sure what it is they used to work when I pulled and held the gear leaver back but now they only work for the second when I first put it into reverse. Any one had this before? Thanks

R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted (edited)

Locate - Yes.

Troubleshoot - depends on how mechanically/electrically minded you are!

There is a plug at the reverse switch (on the gearbox) and in the engine bay where it joins back into the wiring loom.

Ground - I'd have to take a look and the wiring diagram to see exactly where the circuit is grounding. Something I neither have the time or the patience for at this time of the night.

Edited by R32Abuser
R32Abuser Mentor

R32Abuser

Posted
Posted (edited)

After checking everything again, still couldn't find the fault >.

What did you "check" and how?

He also checked everything and still doesn't work. ....

Something isn't being checked correctly.

Agreed.

As I said above, I had issues testing the circuit without having reverse selected and powered. Otherwise I got nothing...

Edited by R32Abuser
89CAL Grand Master

89CAL

Posted
Posted

I've had the wiring diagram out

There is a plug at the tail-lights (obviously), a plug drivers side top front of boot (this may be out of sight inside the guard, I'm not real sure), the plug at the front which I mentioned before and then the plug at the switch on the gearbox

I cant find what fuse it is tee-ed off, but there are a fair few things powered off the same circuit like the de-fogger relay (rear window) so if thats working I dare say the power source is O.K.

Basically just need to test the switch, or bridge out the plug to eliminate the switch completely. Get the lights working without the switch and then you can see if the switch works. If you have power at the switch harness, then the earth is at the tail lights. If you have all the other lights + number plate lights then Earth is most likely not your problem, the Earth is common to all of them.

dyl33 Mentor

dyl33

Posted
Posted

OP has already said he has tested the switch and it is O.K.

My switch could test fine to, i could also wiggle the gear stick while in reverse and get reverse lights going for a few seconds. Was very weird new switch fixed it. No idea if that's OP problem. Just a thought

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      Lol a few are like that with no intention of being reborn unfortunately. 
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Done, I'll do mine soon too - whenver I take out the car next. I can cheat and make it quieter by turning off VCT at idle too - but I lose the braps
    • 25RBGT
      Got this r31 silhouette flood car to rebuild.

      By 25RBGT · Posted

      All trim back in wired running driving. Few things to follow up on but not far off the return to the road. att.6HN4wP38LTIOISkhA8eACoBFqzfgQMahZPLA8ut0pqE.mp4 att.w2q0ux2PGuqgQTj2Os13cNHQtqcSEcCAhD_CAXy_IQM.mp4
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The trouble with phone apps is that they really do not know the sensitivity of the mic on each specific phone, whether there is some sort of cover or skin that can change that, etc etc. So the readings off them are not calibrated. You certainly couldn't be sure that you were even within 3 dB. I have the same app on two (actually more than that) different phones/tablets and the readings in the same room at the same time are never the same. I don't mind the apps - they are as useful as a dyno - if you're testing for delta from thing1 to thing2. But not to try to generate some sort of absolute value.
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      I'm gonna use the "Sound Meter" app from the Google Play Store and as close as I can bother to these procedures: 4. TEST METHOD FOR ALL VEHICLES EXCEPT PRE ADR83 IN-SERVICE GOODS VEHICLES AND OMNIBUSES 4.1 Microphone position 4.1.1 The microphone shall be directed towards the orifice of the exhaust outlet and shall be supported by a tripod or similar device not providing excessive acoustic reflection. The general requirements for positioning microphones are shown in the Appendix. 4.1.2 The nominal axis of maximum sensitivity of the microphone shall be substantially parallel to the test site surface and shall make an angle of 45 degrees ±10 degrees with the principal direction of gas flow from the exhaust. 4.1.3 In selecting the 45 degree alignment from the outlet of a motor vehicle fitted with two or more outlets, only the angle resulting in the microphone being farthest from any other outlet must be used. National Stationary Exhaust Noise Test Procedures for In-Service Motor Vehicles Page 3 4.1.4 The height of the microphone above the test site surface shall be equal to that of the orifice of the exhaust outlet ±25mm but shall not be less than 200mm above the test site surface. 4.1.5 The distance of the microphone from the exhaust outlet orifice shall be 500mm±25mm. 4.1.6 [Relates to vertical exhaust outlets] 4.1.7 For vehicles fitted with one exhaust outlet the microphone shall be placed so that the greatest possible distance is achieved between it and the vehicle. 4.1.8 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] 4.1.9 [Relates to multi exhaust outlets] TLDR: 200mm off ground 45 degree angle relative to exhaust flow 500mm from tailpipe exit. (I probably won't use a tripod) Here's a photo, cause I read the instructions wrong myself.
×
×
  • Create New...