R32 Gtr Will Not Start, Cranks, But No Love Help!

[matty75]

Hi all, I have a problem that is both making me lose hair and sleep, and weight as I have to walk everywhere! I recently changed the injectors of my car over (2 of the originals were leaky) everything was good for a day and a half, untill the car stopped dead on me on my way to work. got the car towed home to sort it out, but the no start problem is still there.

So this is what is going on.... when I pull out the CAS, and turn it the injectors can be heard clicking, the fuel pump is working, but the strange thing is that the only good quality spark comes from cylinder 1, all other coils give a weak spark, and somewhat erratic as they dont spark regularly compared to the first, i swapped the coils arround, same thing still good on number 1, I have tried a new ignitor, put new plugs in, can smell fuel in the exhaust after cranking for a long time, even teamed up my freshly charged battery with a jump starter pack, seems to almost want to go (prob cylinder 1 doing the right thing), but wont. Speed of cranking does not sound any different to normal, and timing belt has not moved over any teeth, If it is of any consequence, I noticed that the tacho does not move when cranking.

Before I delve into the sea of wiring I figured Id see if i can get some pointers from you, I have checked earths quickly, and they seem ok, but have not gotten arround to testing continuity of wiring to the ECU, when the car stopped I had only been driving for 2 minutes, and was not giving it a taste of my right boot prior to stoppage.....

Any help, ideas, oppinions etc. would be greatly appreciated, before i turn into skinny zombie kojack............

cheers and beers,

Matty.

[Hadouken]

Have you tried another ignitor module? The silver thing that sits on top of the rocker cover... And I believe if that doesnt work then try the coil pack loom if it looks a bit "how ye goin".

Just shooting ideas out there.

[Shoota_77]

As there seems to be spark issues obviously look into that first. As per above I'd look at the coil pack harness, they get cooked after many years of use and can snap wires especially if you played around with them while doing the injectors.

If the spark side is actually ok then possibly could be something to do with high/low impedence injectors? Did you change all of the injectors or just the leaky ones? If you changed all to high impedence and didn't get rid of your resistor then that may give you troubles.

Good luck!

[matty75]

ok, so it turns out my brain doesn't function particularly well on 4 hours sleep, ignition is all ok, turned out i was turning the CAS the wrong way, so spark side of equation is all good, I guess the next things on the list are to check fuel pressure, and the compression, unless there is something else I should look towards, please note, I have tried everything with each set of injectors installed, and these replacement injectors are factory r34 gtr injectors, which research shows me are interchangable with r32 injectors, but this info has been from on-line sources, so.....Anyhoo, thanks for the input, any more thinking from anyone else, so I dont have to use my dodgy brain, is again greatly appreciated.

Matty.

[R.3.2.G.T.R]

try another CAS if you can, i had similar issue and it was CAS internal that were screwed up, so signal was all over the place

[matty75]

Just to give this closure, I performed a compression test, results left a bad taste in my mouth, #1 75psi, #2 115psi, #3 120psi, #4 40psi, #5 40psi, #6 40psi, even though the gauge was a cheap one, and possibly far from accurate, the differances can not be argued with, test was performed multiple times, with not much variation of numbers during each attempt, throttle down, fuel pump unplugged and a fully charged battery.....

This has left me wondering WTF has happened? car started easily before that fatefull drive, did not seem to turn any different from any other day, as I said in the first post, I was not wringing the things neck, hell it was still warming up, and I do preach mechanical sympathy at these times, I guess a leak down test is the next step, Any clues as to what may have occured to turn a once healthy engine into one that will not start due to catastrophic compression loss??? Time to pull the AE86 out of mothballs and get it regoed, sick of this walking caper...... Alternatively, anyone got a healthy rb26 bottom end for sale around Newcastle???

Thanks for the help guys, I guess only excessive alcohol consumption will ease my pain from now on!!!

Matty.

[Sinista32]

unusual compression test readings indeed. as you said the differences are whack.

Back 3 line up even though showing extremely low but 0% difference. 2 and 3 acceptable difference. #1 out by itself.

Correct - Excessive alcohol helps. Look forward to finding out why also

Judging by your number of posts you haven't had it long either. That's sad

Who knows could be something simple, so don't drown in booze just yet

Edit:

Blown head gasket for the back 3 ?

Spark firing issue

Edited July 1, 2014 by Sinista32

[533 RYC]

Same low pressure readings for adjacent cylinders USUALLY indicates a leak between cylinders. It would take a SERIOUS overheat to warp across 3 cylinders like that.

There are a few other possibilties though.

Lack of compression in the areas between the cylinders due to:

Original headgasket & head bolts. Years of heat up, cool down, head bolts don't like that, & will eventually give up.

Higher boost levels with original gasket & bolts.

Q: Which 2 injectors did you change? When they were leaking & when trying to start the engine, did it ever sound like it hydraulic locked (rrr-clunk)?

Have you had the rocker covers off to check the camshafts? Has 1 snapped? It wouldn't be a first time.