Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

CA18 track car, not fast but potentially fast enough to move fluids around too much. I'm assuming it's fuel surge. Walbro 400lp/h pump.

Car will cough, splutter and miss coming out of right hand corners when the tank is below 1/3rd -so fuel moves to the left.

It's now happening with the tank half full/a little under half.

Still likely to be fuel surge or more likely a wiring issue?

The pump is hose clamped to the hanger as low as I could get it without it touching, I also remove the lower mounting surface from the arm so it was not obstructing the picking.

Surge tank time or something else?

And if surge tank, what's the easiest/cheapest way to achieve this?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/445031-fuel-surge-issues/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 49
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

High G force turns on slicks will pretty much ruin any chances of keeping the fuel around the pump pickup. Looks like you need a decent surge tank setup. I guess now you need to decide on a budget, because braided teflon and fittings aren't cheap... Will you be looking at an external pump, or trying to fit the walbro into the surge tank?

Only using 235 RS-Rs

I thought with half a tank in it, there should be enough fuel but maybe not.

Budget would be as low as is safe. It doesn't need high end stuff as it's only tracked from time to time and it doesn't use a heap of fuel so flow is not a big problem.

No idea about pumps, whatever is cheapest and easiest. I know I need a second pump but I was under the impression the second pump could be basically anything?

It depends where the surge tank is mounted, if it's inside the car I would want motorsport fittings, not push on rubber lines. Underneath, there are still rocks and crap flicking up...

Or just run with a full tank like I do.

Fair enough, the standard tank has push on rubber hose into hard lines, can't be that bad.

That said, can't hurt to look at prices.

I'll do some searching for some diagrams to show me how all this stuff is supposed to work/be mounted.

Fair enough, the standard tank has push on rubber hose into hard lines, can't be that bad.

That said, can't hurt to look at prices.

I'll do some searching for some diagrams to show me how all this stuff is supposed to work/be mounted.

Nothing wrong with just efi hose and push on fittings. Ive used it on my surge setup for 3 years no issues and ive actually not been able to take off the lines off the barbs its that tight so no safety issues for it coming off. Cheapest way just get a surge tank and your basic speedflow push on fittings and some efi house and whatever pump you want and problem will be solved for a few 100 dollars.

Well the better pump should feed the engine as it has to build pressure so just get a cheap pump to use in tank,

You can get heaps of info and diagrams on surge tanks by Googling but you could easily spend $1000 although it could be done for less.

I would tend to go with Scotty's advice - just buy a couple of 20L containers and keep your tank full.

Yeah I've got 2x 20L but with the upper half of the tank being another 20L or so it means there's only really 60L of fuel, or just over 1 full tank worth.

During a full track day, up to 150ks plus I can easily go through a full tank and almost both 20L containers.

I could just buy a 3rd 20L container but it's a pain in the ass carting them around.

Not to mention carrying an extra 20-30kg i don't need.

Edited by ActionDan

Well the better pump should feed the engine as it has to build pressure so just get a cheap pump to use in tank,

You can get heaps of info and diagrams on surge tanks by Googling but you could easily spend $1000 although it could be done for less.

I would tend to go with Scotty's advice - just buy a couple of 20L containers and keep your tank full.

how is that a good solution? It doesnt solve hes problem cause now you have half capacity of your tank, you have to muck around with bringing more fuel, potentially still having the problem occur if you let it drop again and if your racing around you want to get all the free weight off you can. He can solve thos problem for under 500 and be able to run it down til the light comes on if you wanted to.

If it's trailered to the track, I don't see an issue with the surge. If he drives it... Perhaps not a great idea. I would run the surge as the best option, but hide it well if used on road.

Yeah that was kind of the reason I had for suggesting surge is best option since he said its a track car so I assumed street stealth wasnt an issue but if it was a street car with occasional track then yeah you would sacrafice a little bit and live with having to fill it up.

I assumed I i'd use it to feed the engine but your comment implies it can't be externally mounted?

Just leave it in tank and atleast you know you have a overkill lift pump that you dont have to worry about failing. Pumps are pretty cheap these days so take your pic to whatever you want to use as your surge feed pump. I personally use a 044 but yes they are old and there are better pumps out there but I got a few for cheap and they do the job for me.

So correct me if I'm wrong.

Green - Feed from surge tank through additional fuel pump (to be purchased) that feeds the engine.
Red - Return from surge tank to fuel tank.
Blue - Can be either feed from fuel tank to surge tank or returning from engine
Yellow - Can be either feed from fuel tank to surge tank or returning from engine

Also, standard fuel hose is 5/16th?

Black circle is a hole I'll likely have to cut into the spare wheel well.

Do I need to section off the boot from the cabin now?

post-23873-0-04766800-1404623929_thumb.jpg

Edited by ActionDan

So correct me if I'm wrong.

Green - Feed from surge tank through additional fuel pump (to be purchased) that feeds the engine.

Red - Return from surge tank to fuel tank.

Blue - Can be either feed from fuel tank to surge tank or returning from engine

Yellow - Can be either feed from fuel tank to surge tank or returning from engine

Also, standard fuel hose is 5/16th?

Black circle is a hole I'll likely have to cut into the spare wheel well.

Do I need to section off the boot from the cabin now?

attachicon.gifIMG_20140706_143156 - Copy.jpg

Yeah thats correct, I personally run the return from surge to fuel tank on top but yeah either works whatever you prefer. Youll have to other seal off rear boot from in cabin or make a enclosure for the tank.

Question regarding the feed from the surge to the pump.

Given the feed out of the pump and into the fuel system will be 5/16 EFI fuel hose like what's already there, can the feed into the pump be the same or must it be bigger?

I ask only because that fitting is 10AN compared to the 6AN used everywhere else.

My plane was simply to buy AN to 5/16th barb fittings like these. Though I'm having trouble finding a 10AN to 5/16 barb to so I might have to go 10AN to 8AN then to 5/16.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Speedflow-5-16-8mm-Barb-to-6AN-AN6-AN-6-Female-Hose-Fitting-Adapter-Push-On-/271437188344?pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3f32eaccf8&_uhb=1

And then just use something like this hose for everything and these clamps.

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/370906965297?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/160749548016?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...